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Posted by Olwyn Mary on May 5, 2009, 3:28 pm
Sparafucile wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On Mon, 04 May 2009 10:41:11 -0500, Olwyn Mary wrote:
>
>
>>If I can be of further help, don't hesitate to come back with your
>>questions.
>
> Hi, Olwyn Mary and Sarah!
>
> Yes, I do have a question or two. But first: should I take this to
> email, or is anyone else interested in this thread?
>
> In any event, first: I don't have a pattern for the stole, just
> "suggestions". So how do you "round" the neck portion so that it lays
> comfortably around the neck? I know the Eastern Orthodox miter it into
> a "V", but Episcopalian/Roman Catholic priests that I have spoken to
> don't like that,yet their greatest complaint is about the neck.
>
> Second: do you have a source for trim (orphrey, galoon and applique
> crosses and the like)? Yes, I can get them in NYC for a good price,
> but they all have a minimum order, and I want to make one stole before
> commiting to a large order. I'm particularly looking for appliques.
>
> Thanks to both of you!
First of all, keep it public unless someone complains. You never know
how many lurkers there are out there, very interested in the subject but
too timid to post.
I used to make a pattern for each individual priest. I ask him/her for
the stole which fits best, then lay it out on pattern paper or newsprint
paper (unprinted, that is) or tracing paper or unwoven facing - whatever
comes to hand. I double it, then lay it out flat and trace around it,
leaving room for a seam. This way, I can get an exact copy of the
preferred neck curve. I used to have one for each of several clergy,
before we moved here.
Orphreys, galoons etc. Try the Almy catalogue (C. M. Almy and Sons,
IIRC). Their stuff is not cheap, but you can get it in small quantities.
Actually, there are several supply houses, some of the Roman Catholic
ones are very good, the Orthodox ones tend to be extremely ornate. I
don't usually buy the appliques, but then I am an embroideress, and just
embroider them on by hand. Some people also embroider orphreys, and
there are those machine embroidery enthusiasts who set up things that way.
In any case, if you are thinking of doing ecclesiatical work, it is good
to have your own copy of the Almy catalogue, and likewise of the Wippell
one. Wippell are in England, beautiful work but wildly expensive, but
it is useful to have copies of the actual catalogues to leaf through for
inspiration. Your church office should have copies of at least some of
these catalogues, they also sell church furnishings such as linens and
silver etc.
I'll Google for some supply houses, and come back with sites for you.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
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Posted by Sparafucile on May 7, 2009, 5:02 pm
On Tue, 05 May 2009 14:28:46 -0500, Olwyn Mary
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Orphreys, galoons etc. Try the Almy catalogue (C. M. Almy and Sons,
> IIRC). Their stuff is not cheap, but you can get it in small quantities.
> Actually, there are several supply houses, some of the Roman Catholic
> ones are very good, the Orthodox ones tend to be extremely ornate.
Hi Olwyn Mary!
I ordered the Almy general catalog from their web
site, but I did not see fabrics or trim - just
completed vestments and church goods. Do I have
the right CM Almy?
I went in to LaLame (I live near NYC). Wow! what
fabrics and trim. What prices! But gorgeous stuff.
I'm going to start with a stole in Dupioni silk,
with applique crosses and wide horizontal Orphrey
at the bottom. What interfacing do you suggest:
woven or non, iron-on or sew-in? I have access to
Promark, and I thought a non-woven iron or of
medium weight, but will await your advice.
Many thanks!
--
Ciao,
Serge
ŽI love cats because I take pleasure in my home;
and little by little, the cats become its visible
soul.¡
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
5/7/2009 4:56:15 PM
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Posted by Olwyn Mary on May 7, 2009, 9:29 pm
Sparafucile wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hi Olwyn Mary!
>
> I ordered the Almy general catalog from their web
> site, but I did not see fabrics or trim - just
> completed vestments and church goods. Do I have
> the right CM Almy?
>
> I went in to LaLame (I live near NYC). Wow! what
> fabrics and trim. What prices! But gorgeous stuff.
>
> I'm going to start with a stole in Dupioni silk,
> with applique crosses and wide horizontal Orphrey
> at the bottom. What interfacing do you suggest:
> woven or non, iron-on or sew-in? I have access to
> Promark, and I thought a non-woven iron or of
> medium weight, but will await your advice.
>
> Many thanks!
Oh dear. Perhaps they have stopped carrying it, although I doubt it.
If there is a phone no. in the catalogue, you might want to give them a
call. Perhaps the supplies come in a different catalogue.
As to interfacing, I can only say - try it. I, personally, do not use
fusibles for vestments because I am always afraid they may not fuse
properly with home irons. Perhaps you could find some scraps of both
dupioni and various kinds of sew-in, and try them until you meet one
that works well and gives you the look you want. I do not care for the
non-wovens.
Have you instituted a search in your parish office for other catalogues?
Where does the Altar Guild obtain its supplies? How about the
Diocesan Altar Guild? Do they maintain a library of books or catalogues?
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans
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Posted by Kate XXXXXX on May 5, 2009, 3:36 pm
Sparafucile wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On Mon, 04 May 2009 10:41:11 -0500, Olwyn Mary wrote:
>
>> If I can be of further help, don't hesitate to come back with your
>> questions.
> Hi, Olwyn Mary and Sarah!
>
> Yes, I do have a question or two. But first: should I take this to
> email, or is anyone else interested in this thread?
Always interested. As a dress and costume maker, there's no knowing
what I might be asked for next!
show/hide quoted text
>
> In any event, first: I don't have a pattern for the stole, just
> "suggestions". So how do you "round" the neck portion so that it lays
> comfortably around the neck? I know the Eastern Orthodox miter it into
> a "V", but Episcopalian/Roman Catholic priests that I have spoken to
> don't like that,yet their greatest complaint is about the neck.
Cut the two long bits that hang down the front separate from the bit
that goes round the back of the neck... Cut that like a facing for a
jewel necked top... Just a thought.
show/hide quoted text
>
> Second: do you have a source for trim (orphrey, galoon and applique
> crosses and the like)? Yes, I can get them in NYC for a good price,
> but they all have a minimum order, and I want to make one stole before
> commiting to a large order. I'm particularly looking for appliques.
These any use to you?
show/hide quoted text
> http://www.sewbizfabrics.com/applivenice8.shtml
show/hide quoted text
> http://www.windstarembroidery.com/Christian-Embroidery-Designs.cfm
Or are these better:
show/hide quoted text
>
http://www.laughinglizards.com/religious-spiritual-c-72_122.html?osCsid=74819e429d3de623165f1220f1482b96
show/hide quoted text
>
http://www.createforless.com/Wrights+Appliques+Iron+On+Gold+Metallic+Cross/pid83178.aspx?utm_source=shopDT&utm_medium=cse
Having had a look round, it might be better to go the embrodered route,
and if you don't have that capacity, get that priced by someone who ca
do a nice job for you.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by Olwyn Mary on May 5, 2009, 4:07 pm
Kate XXXXXX wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>
> Always interested. As a dress and costume maker, there's no knowing
> what I might be asked for next!
>
>> In any event, first: I don't have a pattern for the stole, just
>> "suggestions". So how do you "round" the neck portion so that it lays
>> comfortably around the neck? I know the Eastern Orthodox miter it into
>> a "V", but Episcopalian/Roman Catholic priests that I have spoken to
>> don't like that,yet their greatest complaint is about the neck.
>
>
> Cut the two long bits that hang down the front separate from the bit
> that goes round the back of the neck... Cut that like a facing for a
> jewel necked top... Just a thought.
Sorry, Kate. They are traditionally made in two pieces, with a seam at
the center back and a cross embroidered over it. For fitting, if the
cleric does not have a favorite stole, it is better to try a few
different curves in a toile, to see what is best.
show/hide quoted text
>
>> Second: do you have a source for trim (orphrey, galoon and applique
>> crosses and the like)? Yes, I can get them in NYC for a good price,
>> but they all have a minimum order, and I want to make one stole before
>> commiting to a large order. I'm particularly looking for appliques.
>
>
> These any use to you?
>
>> http://www.sewbizfabrics.com/applivenice8.shtml
>> http://www.windstarembroidery.com/Christian-Embroidery-Designs.cfm
show/hide quoted text
> Or are these better:
>
>>
http://www.laughinglizards.com/religious-spiritual-c-72_122.html?osCsid=74819e429d3de623165f1220f1482b96
show/hide quoted text
>>
http://www.createforless.com/Wrights+Appliques+Iron+On+Gold+Metallic+Cross/pid83178.aspx?utm_source=shopDT&utm_medium=cse
None of the above, unfortunately. The iron-on ones cannot be used -
must be sewn on and dry-cleanable (or hand washable in the case of
synthetic fibre vestments) and the machine embroidery ones would have to
be purchased by an enthusiast.
show/hide quoted text
>
> Having had a look round, it might be better to go the embrodered route,
> and if you don't have that capacity, get that priced by someone who ca
> do a nice job for you.
Always safer to go to the "official" house unless you really, truly know
what you are doing. (Wippell's is in Exeter, BTW, you might take a look
at their site). I can bend the rules because I know them, what is
absolute and what is optional. Also, whenever I have made vestments, it
has always been in close consultation with the intended wearer.
BTW, Kate, on another topic, there is a question on the PMB board about
making a taffeta corset. You might want to help the lady.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans
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>
>
>>If I can be of further help, don't hesitate to come back with your
>>questions.
>
> Hi, Olwyn Mary and Sarah!
>
> Yes, I do have a question or two. But first: should I take this to
> email, or is anyone else interested in this thread?
>
> In any event, first: I don't have a pattern for the stole, just
> "suggestions". So how do you "round" the neck portion so that it lays
> comfortably around the neck? I know the Eastern Orthodox miter it into
> a "V", but Episcopalian/Roman Catholic priests that I have spoken to
> don't like that,yet their greatest complaint is about the neck.
>
> Second: do you have a source for trim (orphrey, galoon and applique
> crosses and the like)? Yes, I can get them in NYC for a good price,
> but they all have a minimum order, and I want to make one stole before
> commiting to a large order. I'm particularly looking for appliques.
>
> Thanks to both of you!