martial arts uniform sew pattern ?

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martial arts uniform sew pattern ? robb 05-16-2008
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Posted by robb on May 17, 2008, 3:26 pm

> robb wrote:
> > Does anyone have a link or suggestion to find or make a
> > sewing pattern for a karate student/practice uniform (?
> > Gi ?) ?
>
> I'm sure Sharon H. will be along any minute, she has made
> Gis for her BIL and son. In the meantime, try:
>
> http://roundearth.stores.yahoo.net/gipattern.html
>
> http://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=ptn
>
> Here is a link to the Google archives of alt.sewing, you may
> find useful links, I searched on "Gi" and "Author: Sharon":
>
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q=Gi&num=10&scoring=r&hl=en&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_ugroup=alt.sewing&as_usubject=&as_uauthors=Sharon&lr=&as_drrb=q&as_qdr=&as_mind=1&as_minm=1&as_miny=1981&as_maxd=16&as_maxm=5&as_maxy=2008&safe=off
>
> This tinyurl goes to the same page, in case that URL breaks:
> http://tinyurl.com/66wyj8
>
> Beverly

Thanks Beverly,
yes, roundearth, that was the one.... i typed roundend but
roundearth is what i should have typed.

I looked through the group archive and sharon came up in almost
every instance, lots of useful stuff there

Thanks again for the help and links .
robb


Posted by BEI Design on May 17, 2008, 5:22 pm
robb wrote:

> Thanks Beverly,
> yes, roundearth, that was the one.... i typed roundend but
> roundearth is what i should have typed.
>
> I looked through the group archive and sharon came up in
> almost
> every instance, lots of useful stuff there

Sharon is the Queen of Gi. ;-)

> Thanks again for the help and links .
> robb

You're welcome.

Beverly



Posted by Sharon Hays on May 17, 2008, 9:19 am
robb wrote:

> Does anyone have a link or suggestion to find or make a sewing
> pattern for a karate student/practice uniform (? Gi ?) ?
>
> I have googled for a karate uniform sewing pattern and found
> something at ...
>
> roundend.com
> simplicity
>
> but the patterns either say costume, which may not be suitable
> for a real (Gi), or there are not alot of details nor pictures to
> give an idea of whether it is the correct type or style needed
> for a student/practice uniform.
>
> and i also found many links and references to listserves , forums
> or newsgroups with many people huffing and grunting about why
> anyone would bother to make one ..... bla bla bla
>
> So, i thought i would start where the people actually understand
> why people sew things or at least respect the decision to do so.
>
> I am a bit surprised there are not any free ones about as it
> should be quite a simple pattern like a robe or some simple
> elastic waist or draw cord pants but i can not seem to locate it.
>
> thanks for any help
> robb

If you want a pattern, get the round earth pattern. They pick and choose
and only sell patterns that will actually work for martial arts.


This is a usable set of instructions:
http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm

It's a little scarce on details. And I would tell you not to fold the
shoulder. Put a seam in there. All the martial arts gis I've seen have a
shoulder seam. So instead of cutting the way it shows on the instructions
here, cut 4 pieces. Two fronts and two backs.

A gi is basically a just past hip length kimono. *1 (that's why I gave you a
link for making kimono.) There are just a few differences and things to
keep in mind. Here we go......

Once the collar band is on, it will need to be stiffened. (it could get
grabbed and used to throw, etc.) That's not hard but it is time consuming.
You will need to topstitch the collar band every 1/4" from the seam that
attaches it to the body of the gi to the outer edge. That will give it
enough body to do what it needs to do. Also, some gis repeat this at the
sleeve hem.

You need waist ties inside a gi. You need a tie on the inside waist on the
left and a matching one on the outside of the right front. (that's so the
top can wrap left over right. If yours needs to wrap right over left,
adjust accordingly) You can put them on the outside for the other side,
but the obi (belt) should keep that side shut on its own.

All your construction (with the exception of attaching the collar) needs to
be either a French seam or a flat felled seam. If you choose a French seam,
then press the allowance to one side and topstitch it in place. (so it
looks like a mock flat felled seam.) You need this to be STURDY.

Remember to leave "vents" at the side seams towards the hem. It's a
movement allowance thing. You just stop the seam about 2" above the hem,
and finish the edges of the seam allowances there.

The KEY THING to remember is lots of ease!!! It needs to be a much looser
fit than you first think. HUGE body movements will happen in this top.
Take that into consideration when you are planning how big to cut it.

Pants......got any sweat pant patterns? You need an elastic waist with a
drawstring. You want to put the drawstring on the Inside of the pants.
Again LOTS of ease. The hem should probably fall just above the ankle
bone. BUT!!! I would suggest you look around the dojo and see what length
the other students have. For easiest movement....above the ankle bone,
wide leg (no taper to the pant leg at all.)

If you want a breathable fabric (my best reason for making rather than
buying.....most of the RTW are all poly....icky) a heavy weight linen or
linen blend works really well. That's what I used for most of the stuff I
did for my BIL.

HTH

Sharon
*1-- technically, the garment that I've found to be closest to what we call
a gi is actually a han-juban. I haven't done searches for instructions
for that. But it's basically a hip length kimono that crosses over and
ties. ;)
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.

Posted by robb on May 17, 2008, 9:10 pm

> robb wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have a link or suggestion to find or make a
sewing
> > pattern for a karate student/practice uniform (? Gi ?) ?
> > robb
>
> If you want a pattern, get the round earth pattern. They pick
and choose
> and only sell patterns that will actually work for martial
arts.
>

Great so i can trust that roundearth pattern is more than a
costume.

>
> This is a usable set of instructions:
> http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm
>
> It's a little scarce on details. And I would tell you not to
fold the
> shoulder. Put a seam in there. All the martial arts gis I've
seen have a
> shoulder seam. So instead of cutting the way it shows on the
instructions
> here, cut 4 pieces. Two fronts and two backs.
>
> A gi is basically a just past hip length kimono. *1 (that's why
I gave you a
> link for making kimono.) There are just a few differences and
things to
> keep in mind. Here we go......
>
> Once the collar band is on, it will need to be stiffened. (it
could get
> grabbed and used to throw, etc.) That's not hard but it is
time consuming.
> You will need to topstitch the collar band every 1/4" from the
seam that
> attaches it to the body of the gi to the outer edge. That will
give it
> enough body to do what it needs to do. Also, some gis repeat
this at the
> sleeve hem.
>
> You need waist ties inside a gi. You need a tie on the inside
waist on the
> left and a matching one on the outside of the right front.
(that's so the
> top can wrap left over right. If yours needs to wrap right over
left,
> adjust accordingly) You can put them on the outside for the
other side,
> but the obi (belt) should keep that side shut on its own.
>
> All your construction (with the exception of attaching the
collar) needs to
> be either a French seam or a flat felled seam. If you choose a
French seam,
> then press the allowance to one side and topstitch it in place.
(so it
> looks like a mock flat felled seam.) You need this to be
STURDY.
>
> Remember to leave "vents" at the side seams towards the hem.
It's a
> movement allowance thing. You just stop the seam about 2"
above the hem,
> and finish the edges of the seam allowances there.
>
> The KEY THING to remember is lots of ease!!! It needs to be a
much looser
> fit than you first think. HUGE body movements will happen in
this top.
> Take that into consideration when you are planning how big to
cut it.
>
> Pants......got any sweat pant patterns? You need an elastic
waist with a
> drawstring. You want to put the drawstring on the Inside of
the pants.
> Again LOTS of ease. The hem should probably fall just above
the ankle
> bone. BUT!!! I would suggest you look around the dojo and see
what length
> the other students have. For easiest movement....above the
ankle bone,
> wide leg (no taper to the pant leg at all.)
>
> If you want a breathable fabric (my best reason for making
rather than
> buying.....most of the RTW are all poly....icky) a heavy weight
linen or
> linen blend works really well. That's what I used for most of
the stuff I
> did for my BIL.
>
> HTH
> Sharon

Thanks Sharon,
Yes, that helps greatly.

i also am interested in comfort and fit which greatly affects
the price of the RTW/OTS Gi.

In the archives i think you mentioned using a guset in the pants
for the flexible movement and strength. Do you think that is
still in order if i were to use a sweat pant or scrubs type
pattern ?

Besides heavy linen is there any other fabric that you would
consider as an ok-good substitute ?
I was thinking maybe some soft duck or bleached/white denim ?
the Gi online sales places also talk aout 6-8-10-12 oz fabrics
used in their Gi. Have any advice on weight ?

another interesting modification i ran across was inserting
panels of some breathable fabric like (? AirLite ?) across the
back shoulder and inserting 2 inch wide strips along the outer
leg seams and from the armpit down to the waist. Have you heard
of, seen or done anything like that ?

I am guesing the ties on the inside can not be replaced with
velcro ?

unfortuneately this will be for a young child so that just makes
it all the more difficult in the way of scale or rather
re-scaling.

thanks again for the help and ideas ,
robb









Posted by Samantha Hill - remove TRASH t on May 18, 2008, 1:41 am
robb wrote:
>
> In the archives i think you mentioned using a guset in the pants
> for the flexible movement and strength. Do you think that is
> still in order if i were to use a sweat pant or scrubs type
> pattern ?

It is absolutely REQUIRED. My son does judo and tae kwon do, and you
really need that. The last thing you want to hear when doing a kick is
a big RIIIIIPPPPP sound from the seam splitting.

> Besides heavy linen is there any other fabric that you would
> consider as an ok-good substitute ?
> I was thinking maybe some soft duck or bleached/white denim ?
> the Gi online sales places also talk aout 6-8-10-12 oz fabrics
> used in their Gi. Have any advice on weight ?

You need to ask at your martial arts school. I do not think they would
want you to use linen. Is this gi for an adult or a child? If for a
child, you could get away with lighter-weight material, but if for an
adult karate gi, you probably want 8 or 10 oz fabric -- 10 oz is a
relatively lightweight denim.

> another interesting modification i ran across was inserting
> panels of some breathable fabric like (? AirLite ?) across the
> back shoulder and inserting 2 inch wide strips along the outer
> leg seams and from the armpit down to the waist. Have you heard
> of, seen or done anything like that ?

Again, ask your martial arts studio what they will and will not allow,
or you will end up making something you will not be allowed to wear.

> unfortuneately this will be for a young child so that just makes
> it all the more difficult in the way of scale or rather
> re-scaling.


Is there some reason why you want to make the gi instead of just buying
the $16.50 one at ebogu.com? They will grow out of it altogether too
fast.

Scaling it up or down shouldn't be hard, though -- they are very basic
patterns.

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