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Posted by Judie in Penfield NY on March 16, 2008, 12:51 pm
I'm making a little toddler dress with a peter pan collar that zips up
the back. I've just finished basting the collar on the neck seamline. Is
there any reason why I can't just go ahead and sew this on and then
serge the seam allowance down to about 1/4 inch and then understitch
that serged seam allowance? instead of putting in a facing and then
understitching the facing?
it just seems like it would work and be so much faster and probably more
comfy for the little girl? Any thoughts on this? Maybe I am just being
way too lazy but I hate doing facings in the neckline.
Judie in Penfield NY....off to take a much needed break!
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Posted by gjones2938 on March 16, 2008, 1:25 pm
Dear Judie,
Another alternative is to trim the seam allowances away from the neck,
and bind the neckline with either self-bias or a contrast. For the
most superior results, trim the neckline down to 1/4-inch seam
allowance (both dress and collar), sew on the bias, folding over the
ends to the wrong side (both ends), then stitch 1/4 inch seam
allowance. Trim the neckline further to 1/8 inch, and hand sew the
second side of the bias to the wrong side. (This advice coming from
an avid hand-sewer who prefers fine hand finishing to machines.) If
you opt for the bias, but don't like to do hand sewing, start on the
wrong side, then sew by machine from the outside. This will insure
careful sewing for the second stitching.
Teri
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Posted by Judie in Penfield NY on March 16, 2008, 2:03 pm
Thanks, Teri.
I just finished doing the facings but I'm making this little dress as a
sort of trial for a second birthday picture dress so I think I will try
your method on the next one. I'm making this one to be sure it fits
before I make the one with the fabric for her birthday dress.
Also, do you have any advice on how to modify the pattern so I can use
buttons on the back instead of the zipper? I don't want it to button all
the way down the back, and there is a back seam but I'm not sure how to
change the pattern so I can have the top of the seam close with buttons
and not a zipper.
Thanks again,
Judie
gjones2938 wrote:
> Dear Judie,
>
> Another alternative is to trim the seam allowances away from the neck,
> and bind the neckline with either self-bias or a contrast. For the
> most superior results, trim the neckline down to 1/4-inch seam
> allowance (both dress and collar), sew on the bias, folding over the
> ends to the wrong side (both ends), then stitch 1/4 inch seam
> allowance. Trim the neckline further to 1/8 inch, and hand sew the
> second side of the bias to the wrong side. (This advice coming from
> an avid hand-sewer who prefers fine hand finishing to machines.) If
> you opt for the bias, but don't like to do hand sewing, start on the
> wrong side, then sew by machine from the outside. This will insure
> careful sewing for the second stitching.
>
> Teri
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Posted by gjones2938 on March 16, 2008, 5:03 pm
Dear Judie,
This is how you add for all buttons, not just this dress. First,
since patterns no longer have seams printed on them, draw the seam
allowance where the buttons will go. They don't have to be all the
way down the back--just far enough for your child to get it on
easily. Next, decide what size button you want to use. The extension
you draw for the opening should be the radius of the button from the
original seam allowance, plus 1/4 inch.
That's the minimum. To make self facings and finished edges, add two
more inches. This is how I always finish shirts and dresses such as
you describe. You simply press under one inch down the back, then
press in another one inch. You have an interfaced and faced edge for
both buttons and buttonholes.
Teri
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Posted by Taria on March 16, 2008, 6:35 pm
That is pretty much how I do necklines for collared dresses.
Just a serged edge might be kind of scratchy for a little
one. I would rather see the neckline with a bias binding
than a facing. It just looks neater.
Taria
gjones2938 wrote:
> Dear Judie,
>
> Another alternative is to trim the seam allowances away from the neck,
> and bind the neckline with either self-bias or a contrast. For the
> most superior results, trim the neckline down to 1/4-inch seam
> allowance (both dress and collar), sew on the bias, folding over the
> ends to the wrong side (both ends), then stitch 1/4 inch seam
> allowance. Trim the neckline further to 1/8 inch, and hand sew the
> second side of the bias to the wrong side. (This advice coming from
> an avid hand-sewer who prefers fine hand finishing to machines.) If
> you opt for the bias, but don't like to do hand sewing, start on the
> wrong side, then sew by machine from the outside. This will insure
> careful sewing for the second stitching.
>
> Teri
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