order of material - Page 2

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order of material gyrlcentric 09-21-2006
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Posted by Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS on September 21, 2006, 4:51 pm
gyrlcentric wrote:
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And don't forget r.c.t.sewing, either.

Posted by Seeker on September 21, 2006, 4:40 pm
wrote:

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That's a good question and I'll be interested in the answer. However,
on her TV program I've heard Susan Kahlje say that you should should
sew from wide into narrow, if that's of any help.

Sharon


Posted by duh on September 21, 2006, 5:24 pm

Seeker wrote:
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I guess I'm not getting the link between thick and thin, and wide and
narrow.


Posted by Olwyn Mary on September 21, 2006, 6:39 pm
gyrlcentric wrote:
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This is one of those things where you have to do a practice piece.
Personally, I would first try with the thinner fabric on top and see how
it went. This is one more of those cases where even we old sewists play
with the scraps before we start sewing on the actual work.

Olwyn Mary in New orleans.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Posted by Kay Lancaster on September 22, 2006, 5:41 am
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Experimenting is the best choice -- try it both ways and see what works.
You may need to stabilize the stretchier fabric. Heavier fabric may be
stretchier than lighter fabric. Having adjustable presser foot pressure
on your machine and playing with that adjustment can help this sort of
situation.

A challenge and an experiment for you:

If you take two 3.5" wide strips of muslin, 45" long, cut on the crossgrain
(across the width of the fabric), and sew them together without pinning,
what happens? (one will come out longer... is it the top or the bottom
piece?)

If you take two 3.5" wide strips of fabric, 45" long, cut on the
lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvage) and sew them together
without pinning, what happens?

Are the finished lengths of the two strip pairs equal? (This is
an important point to figure out if you're not going to cuss
at quilt borders that want to sew on wonky.)

I'll somewhat spoil the exercise by telling you that there is a way to
make the strips come out evenly -- you don't need a walking foot, but
you do need some notches or match marks on the strips, and you need to
hold the fabric differently than you probably "naturally" do, It's
also not easy to learn from a description, which is why I'm not going
to try it... but borrow one of Margaret Islander's instructional
tapes and watch how she handles the fabric. Learning how to do that
was one of the most "instantly productive" sewing lessons I've ever
had... it's definitely cut down on the amount of unsewing I've had
to do.

Folks can give you "recipes" on how to sew something, but
what works best for you is also a function of the fabric, the fiber
the fabric's made of, the construction of the fabric (woven,
knit, stretchy, stable; balanced or unbalanced, twill or plain
weave...). Also important is the thread (stretchy like polyester
or not so stretchy, like cotton?), number of stitches per inch,
and type and size of needle. So don't be afraid to experiment
with these variables until you get your method figured out for
a particular project.

That's what helps keep sewing interesting... there's always a twist
show/hide quoted text

Kay




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