pattern design curves problem ?

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pattern design curves problem ? robb 03-21-2008
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Posted by robb on March 21, 2008, 3:28 pm
so... i was trying to design something simple like design a pair
of pre-toddler shoes/moccasins ? much like the fabric shoes you
can find on line where the pattern is essentially (oval,
rectangle , rounded triangle, long strip)

**but**

i wanted to try to add some style by **shape** . so, i make the
oval into a foot form shape and make the rounded triangle (top
part) a different shape to fit with the new bottom shape ....

well, to my surprise :( it was not so easy as that with out
creating puckers and tucks and folds and many other maladies that
distracted from the **style part** that i was trying to achieve.

Can anyone offer any ideas, hints or tips on how one creates
curvy pieces that go together neatly and has a assymetric void
created to contain say a foot or any shapely object for that
matter ?

thanks for any help,
robb








Posted by gjones2938 on March 21, 2008, 2:57 pm
Dear Robb,

I make shoes and boots all the time. Mine are for my authentically
dressed dolls, but the process is the same whatever the size.

The sole comes first. The sole determines the shape of the finished
shoe. If you're making shoes or slippers for a toddler, you need the
toddler. Trace around the foot. Take a paper towel, and drape it
over the baby's foot, taping it to the sole (best done when the child
is asleep). This accounts for the ease needed to fit smoothly over
the child's instep.

For the first pair, you probably don't want to get much more
complicated than this, in which case, continue the toweling around to
the back of the child's foot, pin or mark a center back seam. This
gives you the "upper."

Take off any seam allowances you might have, and tape the pieces
together. Try them on to make sure you don't need to make any
adjustments. Now trace the pieces onto new paper, and seam
allowances. A 1/4-inch seam allowance is OK for the uppers, but add
more to the part that attaches to the sole, to make it easier to sew.
The uppers need to be interlined with cardboard or plastic (to keep
them washable) called "foxing." The toe foxing is shaped like the toe
upper, but has no seam allowances and is glued in place above the seam
allowances. The heel foxing is shaped like a half moon, following the
shape of the back sole, and coming up to the heel tendon. The heel
foxing is glued on after the center back seam is sewn.

Starting at one side of the heel, hand gather the upper all the way
around, using more gathering at the toe and heel areas. Insert the
insole, and pull up the gathers to hold it in place, then sew back and
forth over the sole to hold the upper to the lower. Then glue on or
sew on the sole. I used to cover a piece of cardboard or plastic with
black cloth for the sole, then sewed it to the upper. I now have a
large stash of thin leather, and I just cut a piece and glue it on for
soles.

This may be more complicated than you want to get, so go to a re-
enactment site and find a moccasin diagram that shows how to make a
moccasin with one piece of leather. It will have puckers and gather,
because that's how they were made.

Teri


Posted by robb on March 21, 2008, 11:17 pm
Great Teri,

Thanks for all the helpful info, i will try it your way. I have
tried something similar to some of your ideas and have some
questions inline with your helpful advice. In case you have some
time maybe you can point out how i am not achieving the results
you do.

I do have the toddler so that part is covered ...

> Dear Robb,
>
> I make shoes and boots all the time. Mine are for my
authentically
> dressed dolls, but the process is the same whatever the size.
>
> The sole comes first. The sole determines the shape of the
finished
> shoe. If you're making shoes or slippers for a toddler, you
need the
> toddler. Trace around the foot. Take a paper towel, and drape
it
> over the baby's foot, taping it to the sole (best done when the
child
> is asleep). This accounts for the ease needed to fit smoothly
over
> the child's instep.
>

part of this idea is how i made my new sole piece shape. I
traced the outline of the foot standing on paper to produce my
new stylish foot shaped sole instead of the generic oval. i was
thinking that line would be the seam plus a little extra length
and add seam allowance .

in my case the lower and sole are the same piece as it will be
some sort of heavy flexible artificial vinyl or leather material
???

>
> For the first pair, you probably don't want to get much more
> complicated than this, in which case, continue the toweling
around to
> the back of the child's foot, pin or mark a center back seam.
This
> gives you the "upper."
>

ok, creating the the upper patern is exactly where all my
problems are.
and also difficulties matching the upper with the sole for
sewing

when i try to drap and wrap around the foot is when i get a
variety of pulling and shape distortions especially when i try
to push the cloth down to the seam of the sole piece ?? and pin
it in place as for sewing ?

it seems like i need lots of fine pins to make the turns around
the "gone to market" toe turn and the "wee wee wee all the way
home" toe turn and of course the heel. but the heel is not as
bad as the toe side because of the small range of acceptable toe
and fore foot ease you mention. too much makes floppy mess shoe
and of course too little is too tight

>
> Take off any seam allowances you might have, and tape the
pieces
> together. Try them on to make sure you don't need to make any
> adjustments. Now trace the pieces onto new paper, and seam
> allowances. A 1/4-inch seam allowance is OK for the uppers,
but add
> more to the part that attaches to the sole, to make it easier
to sew.
> The uppers need to be interlined with cardboard or plastic (to
keep
> them washable) called "foxing." The toe foxing is shaped like
the toe
> upper, but has no seam allowances and is glued in place above
the seam
> allowances. The heel foxing is shaped like a half moon,
following the
> shape of the back sole, and coming up to the heel tendon. The
heel
> foxing is glued on after the center back seam is sewn.
>
> Starting at one side of the heel, hand gather the upper all the
way
> around, using more gathering at the toe and heel areas.
Insert the
> insole, and pull up the gathers to hold it in place, then sew
back and
> forth over the sole to hold the upper to the lower. Then glue
on or
> sew on the sole. I used to cover a piece of cardboard or
plastic with
> black cloth for the sole, then sewed it to the upper. I now
have a
> large stash of thin leather, and I just cut a piece and glue it
on for
> soles.
>

i will need to try your method, are these actuall gathers (like
shirring) or an expressiong describing the process f ataching the
upper to lower ?

>
> This may be more complicated than you want to get, so go to a
re-
> enactment site and find a moccasin diagram that shows how to
make a
> moccasin with one piece of leather. It will have puckers and
gather,
> because that's how they were made.
>
no this is great stuff ... exactly the kind of complication i am
trying.

at some point i had too complicated and started trying to creat
panel pieces for each section of the shoe example sections --
front toe upper, L/R side front upper, tongue, lower heel upper,
achilles wrap upper. side panel upper etc. then it was becoing
the patchwork shoe and just trying to position toether was
ridiculous.

another component i did not mention was a toe guard or toe wear
piece that serves to protect about a 1/2 inch of the upper in
front of toes and slightlypast each side/end. I suppose this
piece would not be that difficult when the proper shape of the
upper is found as it is just an exact trace of he toe area shape
plust the small bit to cover the toes.
>
> Teri
>

thanks again Teri for all your help and time to help,
robb


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