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Posted by karlisa on April 10, 2006, 6:03 pm
What are good seam finishes for silk satin? I have a serger, but it
always seems to leave hard edges on fine fabrics and I'm not always
pleased with the overall look of serged seams. I would also appreciate
any advice on seam finishing the China silk lining!
thanks
lisa
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Posted by BEI Design on April 10, 2006, 6:12 pm
> What are good seam finishes for silk satin? I have a serger, but it
> always seems to leave hard edges on fine fabrics and I'm not always
> pleased with the overall look of serged seams. I would also
> appreciate
> any advice on seam finishing the China silk lining!
My first choice, especially for seams *inside* a lined area, is pinked
edges. However, I *cut all pieces out* using pinking shears, so this
is not an additional step for me.
Second, would be to hand-overcast...time consuming, but very couture.
Third, where possible, I'd make French seams.
Fourth, ir ravelling is a real issue, would be to three-thread serge
or zig-zag the edges.
Fifth, just straight stitch 1/8" inside the edge of the fabric along
each cut edge.
http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa011398.htm
There is also what's called a'Hong Kong" finish:
http://www.diynet.com/diy/na_sewing/article/0,2025,DIY_14144_2276784,00.html
HTH,
Beverly
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Posted by Kate Dicey on April 11, 2006, 3:31 am
karlisa wrote:
> What are good seam finishes for silk satin? I have a serger, but it
> always seems to leave hard edges on fine fabrics and I'm not always
> pleased with the overall look of serged seams. I would also appreciate
> any advice on seam finishing the China silk lining!
>
> thanks
>
> lisa
>
Beverly & Phae have covered most of it. I'd only add that I HATE
cutting out with pinking sheer, and never do it! :)
I'd only bother to finish the seams if they were exposed: where
something if fully lined, like a jacket, I wouldn't bother. On dresses
and skirts, you really only need to finish the skirt sections below the zip.
I often use a 2 thread serged edge on firmer silks, and serge seams
together on finer ones. On sheers I use a rolled seam - like a rolled
hem, but longer stitches so it isn't as stiff.
On very ravelly silks, cut your seam allowances a bit wider, especially
in high wear or exposed areas.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by Phaedrine on April 11, 2006, 9:02 am
> I'd only add that I HATE
> cutting out with pinking sheer......
You got that right. My hands always ache after the rare occasion when I
pink anything but I was attributing that to the old age of my pinking
shears. :)
I recently bought a new pair of "featherweight" Ginghers. They are
lousy at making little snips--- you know, with the last cm tip of the
scissors. For that I use my regular Ginghers. But otherwise, I really
like them. They are so light and easy on the hands. OTOH, I cut out
almost all my patterns with rotary cutters these days.
Phae
--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)
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Posted by Joy Beeson on April 11, 2006, 6:56 pm
> What are good seam finishes for silk satin?
All my silk garments have flat-felled seams.
I do the top-stitching by hand, because it's hard to find silk thread
that matches well enough, and if I did find any, I wouldn't trust it
to continue matching after some of the dye washed out, so I sew the
fell down with ravelings.
I've had some success with using #100 silk for topstitching wool
(haven't made a silk garment since obtaining it), but it's very hard
to get it to run through the machine properly -- paradoxically, it
seems to encounter *more* friction in the tension disks than thicker
thread -- and though the thread doesn't show, it pulls the wool down
into a very visible crease.
Joy Beeson
--
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
joy beeson at comcast dot net
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