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Posted by BEI Design on May 28, 2008, 2:12 am
Sparafucile wrote:
> OK, I cleaned everything as mentioned by all, and also
> used "canned
> air" after.
Canned air is NOT Recommended, as it just forces any small
bits you didn't manage to remove farther into nooks and
crannies. A vacuum is better, get one of the tiny ones for
computers.
> I increased the tension to "9" (my top) and
> it improved it
> by about 75%, but it still lightly squiggles with the
> Guterman.
>
> OTOH, the Coats & Clark D.D.+ makes a very nice stitch at
> slightly
> above my tension midpoint (4.5).
>
> Ron (the repairman) told me by email "Some machines just
> do not like
> some threads." It seems to me that I should use just C&C
> thread; would
> you agree?
I agree, but then I use C&C for almost everything, and have
for the 62+ years I have been sewing. About the only time
I use a different brand is if I cannot get a perfect color
match in C&C, and it's going to show (like for
topstitching).
> I don't know much about thread, so this leads to a second
> question:
> what is your favorite thread for general sewing and
> garment
> construction, and your least favorite. Why?
See above. ;-) I occasionally use Gutterman, but C&C is my
everyday favorite. I have a supply of silk thread for
basting. For the coverstitch machine and serger I use cones
of Maxi-Lock 100% poly serger thread (unless I need a better
match, then I use C&C). And for my embroidery machine I
have a largish supply of both rayon and poly, both Medeira
and Robison Anton.
Beverly
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Posted by Sharon Hays on May 28, 2008, 8:26 am
Sparafucile wrote:
>
> OK, I cleaned everything as mentioned by all, and also used "canned
> air" after. I increased the tension to "9" (my top) and it improved it
> by about 75%, but it still lightly squiggles with the Guterman.
>
> OTOH, the Coats & Clark D.D.+ makes a very nice stitch at slightly
> above my tension midpoint (4.5).
>
> Ron (the repairman) told me by email "Some machines just do not like
> some threads." It seems to me that I should use just C&C thread; would
> you agree?
>
> I don't know much about thread, so this leads to a second question:
> what is your favorite thread for general sewing and garment
> construction, and your least favorite. Why?
>
> Thanks! I appreciate the help!
Ron is so great. And yeah, there are some threads that certain machines
just don't like.
I prefer Mettler. I will use C&C. And I've noticed an improvement in C&C
over the last couple years. For a while, it was horrible; especially dark
colors. There were big slubs in the thread. Big enough to toss it out of
the tension disks when they passed through. That's when I started using
Mettler for most things.
I've never had a problem of any sort with Mettler in either my Singer or my
Viking home machines.
I know a few folks on here have said they have had problems with Guterman
over the last couple years. You might look through the archives. I
haven't used much of it in a very long time so I can't say from experience.
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Sparafucile on May 28, 2008, 1:15 pm
On Wed, 28 May 2008 07:26:11 -0500, Sharon Hays wrote:
>
> Ron is so great. And yeah, there are some threads that certain machines
> just don't like.
>
> I prefer Mettler. I will use C&C.
Yup, Ron is a very nice guy! Thank you and Beverly for your thread
advice, it was very helpful. I'll simply use the C&C, I can buy it
locally - Mettler can't be found locally, only online.
I also tried a larger needle, and a "jeans" needle, no difference.
Something about Gutterman that fools with the tension, I guess...
I'm glad my problem is resolved, and thank everyone who replied!
--
Ciao,
Serge
ŽI love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.¡
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
5/28/2008 1:10:47 PM
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Posted by Joy Beeson on May 28, 2008, 9:22 pm
> I don't know much about thread, so this leads to a second question:
> what is your favorite thread for general sewing and garment
> construction, and your least favorite.
Even though it comes only in white and off-white, I use DMC 100/6
Cordonnette for all cotton and linen because it's strong. Sometimes I
use 3-ply cotton when white just won't do, but I try to back it up
with 6-ply -- sew the first stitching of a flat-fell with DMC. then
top-stitch with matching thread, for example.
For silk and wool, I prefer size A machine twist, and insist on reeled
silk. ("Spun" silk is chopped up to suit cotton-spinning machines,
and should not be used for seams that have to stand up to wear,
washing, or stress.)
For synthetics, I prefer nylon thread when I can get it. I would
probably like filament polyester if there were such a thing. I have a
few spools of staple polyester around here someplace.
For gathering medallions in my embroidery classes, I use a wire-like
"bonded" nylon that is too thick to run through my sewing machine. As
long as I use the "energy saving" iron (lukewarm, uses two-thirds as
much electricity per hour, you have to iron three times as many
hours), it works very well for hand stitching. (It also worked when I
used the good iron once, but I got black stuff on the iron and had to
press through paper for the rest of the session.) The bonded nylon is
also good for making hanging loops when I give the class in December.
(The rest of the year, I hang the medallions on ribbon and call them
necklaces.)
My least favorite thread: ravelings from the fabric itself. It's a
lot of work, but when it's important that the stitches continue to
match perfectly after the garment is washed, there is no other choice.
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on May 28, 2008, 5:42 am
Two more suggestions for you---
1) sharp/microtex/jeans needle (I'm guessing you want the jeans needle) --
if this is denim weight, and it's going through several layers, I'm going to
guess size 14. Yes, the points do make a difference, sometimes a major
difference. If you 'd like to see what a whole lineup of sizes of needles,
usual varieties of needle points, etc. looks like, here are some photos I
took last summer.
<http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=17206792>
2) you may be running into an issue called "flagging", which means the
fabric deflects as the needle goes through, and can cause all sorts of
funny problems. This can be as simple a cure as moving the stitching over
to the right or left side of the needle slot, putting some paper or stabilizer
below the fabric, using a different needle, or changing the presser foot
pressure so the fabric can't hop up and down like a trampoline being bounced
on by a little kid. Universal points on wovens have more problems with
flagging than sharps on wovens.
Then play with the stitch balance. And like Kate says, watch those bobbin
screws -- they're very short and like to hop out, never to be seen again.
I put the bobbin case and the screwdriver in a closed, ziplock bag for
bobbin screw adjustments.
If you're worried about adjusting a bobbin screw, get a very fine Sharpie
pen and put a mark on the bobbin case that continues the slot across the
screw head. Bobbin screws are adjusted in tiny increments (I use "5 minutes"
of a clockface as my standard trial adjustment). But I have a funny feeling
that a #14 jeans needle will improve the stitch as is.
Some good stuff on thread problems:
http://www.coatschina.com/problem.php
http://www.amefird.com/technical_bulletins_flyers.htm
Though these are meant for people doing "factory sewing", there's still
a lot of good stuff in here for folks who sew at home.
Oh yes: http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa102100a.htm
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