suiting---interface panic!!

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Subject Author Date
suiting---interface panic!! amy 10-03-2007
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Posted by amy on October 3, 2007, 10:45 am
I'm a newbie here, usually chat over at the quilting thread.
i have a question re: interfacing for a suit jacket. It's been a while
since i sewed a jacket. the pattern i have is a rather old one and the
envelope is nowhere to be found...i just had it a minute ago...but i
bought some very nice suiting to make a jacket. now....if i use
fusable interfacing, will it hold up? what weight should i get? the
fabric is sort of light weight rayon/poly, but darker colored...for
winter. i'm a little rusty at this...HELP!
amy


Posted by on October 3, 2007, 12:25 pm
Dear Amy,

You're going to get all kinds of answers for this question. I taught
my students (going into industry) to interface the entire front of the
garment with a fusible knit interfacing, and the collar and lapel with
a layer of a little heavier weight, usually a weft knit. I NEVER use
Pellon for anything. The back should be interfaced as well, down
about three inches in the center back and around the armholes. The
sleeves should be interfaced at the lower edges. Pocket welts or
flaps should be interfaced with the weft interfacing used on the
collar/lapel.

Teri


Posted by amy on October 3, 2007, 1:58 pm
Teri,
Thank you! i was trying to dig out one of my old sewing books, i have
an old Vogue sewing book from school, but cant put my hands on it
right now. it must be packed away somewhere in my sewing room.
i will go and get the int/fcing you suggested. the jacket is almost
thigh length, so should i really put the int/fc all the way down the
front? or just under the lapel areas?
let me know.
amy


Posted by on October 3, 2007, 3:30 pm
Dear Amy,

What fabric are you using? That might make a difference.

Teri


Posted by Kay Lancaster on October 3, 2007, 5:42 pm
> I'm a newbie here, usually chat over at the quilting thread.
> i have a question re: interfacing for a suit jacket. It's been a while
> since i sewed a jacket. the pattern i have is a rather old one and the
> envelope is nowhere to be found...i just had it a minute ago...but i
> bought some very nice suiting to make a jacket. now....if i use
> fusable interfacing, will it hold up? what weight should i get? the
> fabric is sort of light weight rayon/poly, but darker colored...for
> winter. i'm a little rusty at this...HELP!

That's a tough question, because you're going to want to grab a fusible that's
as heavy as a non-fusible you used to work with, and it's going to
overpower the fabric. So test-test-test before committing.

The one I'd probably start testing with is this one:
#1348 weft: http://www.fashionpatterns.com/interface.html and then proceed
from there to the all purpose (7927) and *maybe* 4091. If you need a
heavier interfacing, you can build it up layer by layer.

If I didn't like those swatches, I'd probably punt and send a sample
of the fabric to Louise Cutting, with a picture of the back of the pattern
envelope's line drawings and ask if she could prettypleasewithsugaronit
send me a couple of interfacings she thinks would work. She also has a
most useful interfacing kit:
: http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_dept_ite
ms.asp?Shopper_id=1059103173131059&Store_id=516&Page_id=17&ca
teg_id=9&parent_ids=0
which is: http://preview.tinyurl.com/2hvl9h

I keep the fashionpatterns interfacings in stock at home and use them for
almost everything, because they just work. Period. Most of the interfacings
sold in chain stores I wouldn't bother to take home... I've just had
way too much trouble with them, and they're mostly too heavy.

Also, when you fuse interfacings, do not move them until they've cooled
completely. That makes more of a difference than I ever could have
imagined.

Kay



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