trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

Posted by robb on June 1, 2009, 11:30 am

Hello all,

i made a muslin of a raglan shirt pattern with a contrast panel
on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down to the hem .

I did not like the fit completely,
the under arms had a bit too much slack and poof out (arms down)
the raglan sleeve line was a bit to steep and under shot my pit
by 1.5 inch or so.
and the contrast panel was a bit to subtle.

So, i drew new shape lines on the muslin,
i changed the sleeve line angle so thet raglan sleeve line aimed
at top of the pit (arms down).
i also redrew the front panel line to where i wanted it to follow
my general shape just along and the edge of the pecs then down
with slight flair out.

Problems come trying to transfer to the pattern.

1, transfered angle to the sleeve front/back and to the body
panels front and back.
add to body panel and remove from sleeve.
2. then transfered the re-shape lines to the front and back body
panels along the sides where it attaches to the side contrast.
3. altered the side contrast panel edges to add the part taken
away from the body panel's side reshaping and also adjust the
curve in the top of the side contrst panel where it will join to
the sleeve under the arm.

Problems,
1. the armpit poof got worse pokes out from under the armpit
more.
2. the sleeve does not match up with the arm hole, the sleeve
edge is about 2" longer than the edge it attaches to on the body
panels/side contrast panel. i tried to reshape the side contrast
panel but it really makes a deep U to take care of all that 2" of
extra length sleeve edge ?
3. The raglan sleeve angle line looks good
4. the body panel (front and back) reshape looks good/acceptable
4. the contrast panel went from too subtle to grotesquely
big/wide even though it does not appear to be so big on paper.

maybe i have not followed good sound pattern adjustment practices
?
any hints or tips on how to properly modify this raglan sleeve
and shape.

thanks for any helpful ideas,
robb

Posted by BEI Design on June 1, 2009, 2:53 pm

robb wrote:
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Pattern number?

Beverly

Posted by Teri on June 1, 2009, 4:37 pm

Dear Robb,

It sounds to me like you altered the pattern, rather than altering a
muslin. You can't do that--it never turns out right. Make a muslin
from the original pattern, sew it together with basting stitches so
it's easy to pull apart, then make all your alterations on the
muslin. Don't transfer these marks from the muslin; sew any that need
sewing, and then use the muslin for your pattern. You'll get much
better results.

Teri

Posted by robb on June 3, 2009, 1:17 pm

show/hide quoted text
altering a
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muslin
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stitches so
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that need
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much
show/hide quoted text

Thanks Teri,

You are correct that i tried to transfer my muslin markings back
to my pattern copy.

That is ... I made a pattern copy. i made a muslin. i made
modifications/lines on the muslin and tried to transfer those
markings back to my pattern copy and then make another muslin
from the altered pattern.

i will try your suggestion out

thanks
robb

Posted by robb on June 3, 2009, 11:51 am

show/hide quoted text
Hello Beverly,

I am using this pattern (shirt only)
http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=2881

and i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit according to the
sizing chart advice given at the bottom of the following page
for having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a surgical
glove.

http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm

I already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i go up more
then i may have to make more reduction adjustments to other areas
rather than increase the width of the side panel on the size i am
currently using. I could probably go without the other
adjustments (ragan angle and front panel shape ) *BUT* thats one
reason i like to sew, to customize and make unique changes.

Thanks for any helpful advice,
robb

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