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Posted by BEI Design on June 3, 2009, 12:47 pm
"robb" wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> "BEI Design"wrote i
>> robb wrote:
>> > i made a muslin
Is your muslin fabric "two-way stretch fabric with 75%
stretch on the lengthwise grain"???
show/hide quoted text
>> > of a raglan shirt pattern with a
>> > contrast
>> > panel on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down
>> > to the hem .
>> Pattern number?
> Hello Beverly,
> I am using this pattern (shirt only)
> http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=2881
Why are you using that pattern? From that site:
"The shirt, shorts and trunks are designed for two-way
stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise grain. We
suggest using swimwear fabrics with spandex-Lycraš.
The men's pull-over, very close fitting shirt has short
raglan sleeves and a collar."
show/hide quoted text
> and i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit according
> to the
> sizing chart advice given at the bottom of the following
> page
> for having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a
> surgical
> glove.
http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm
Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows
ear" strike a chord???
show/hide quoted text
> I already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i go up
> more
> then i may have to make more reduction adjustments to
> other areas
> rather than increase the width of the side panel on the
> size i am
> currently using. I could probably go without the other
> adjustments (ragan angle and front panel shape ) *BUT*
> thats one
> reason i like to sew, to customize and make unique
> changes.
> Thanks for any helpful advice,
> robb
Disclaimer: I am not a big fan of KwikSew patterns. I have
tried several and never yet been satisfied with the fit,
drafting, or design.
That said, I would start over using this one of these or
something similar:
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=9499
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5282.htm?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1
Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin tight. It
seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique
changes." often results in banging your head against a wall.
Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+ years,
you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major
pattern alternations. ;-)
This profile confirms my recollection that you first posted
here just a couple of years ago:
http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?hl=en&enc_user=OZC6FhEAAAB8SrwhNNZdbrFUNOe-R7t3IZ6HvvJW0y4Pue0pYgAOJQ
so give yourself a little more time sewing *exactly as the
pattern designers intended*, and THEN start tweaking the
design elements.That included following the "suggested
fabric types", etc. I don't know what fabric you are using,
however, if you try to make a garment from a pattern created
to utilize the properties of 75% stretch knits, but
substitute a woven (or even a knit with less stretch), you
are doomed to lots of frustration and/or failure.
JMHO
Beverly
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Posted by robb on June 3, 2009, 11:56 pm
show/hide quoted text
> "robb" wrote:
> > "BEI Design"wrote i
> > > robb wrote:
> > > > i made a muslin
> Is your muslin fabric "two-way stretch fabric with 75%
> stretch on the lengthwise grain"???
Thanks for the help Beverly,
i thought muslin was just a metaphor for a first pass sewing
draft of a pattern.
i am using this fabric for my muslin
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=AAA805
and i plan to use this fabric in a different color.
http://www.rockywoods.com/Welcome-to-Rockywoods-Outdoor-Fabrics/4-way-stretch-Sun-Blocker-Fabric-Lavender
show/hide quoted text
> >> > of a raglan shirt pattern with a
> >> > contrast
> >> > panel on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down
> >> > to the hem .
> >> Pattern number?
> > I am using this pattern (shirt only)
> > http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=2881
> Why are you using that pattern? From that site:
> "The shirt, shorts and trunks are designed for two-way
> stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise grain. We
> suggest using swimwear fabrics with spandex-Lycraš.
> The men's pull-over, very close fitting shirt has short
> raglan sleeves and a collar."
I want to make a swim/rash guard shirt for some wave
riding/boogie boarding and to provide some sun protection too. i
thought starting with a swimwear style shirt pattern would be
better or closer than trying to use a pajama or t-shirt pattern
which is very loose.
show/hide quoted text
> > and i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit according
> > to the
> > sizing chart advice given at the bottom of the following
> > page
> > for having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a
> > surgical
> > glove.
http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm
show/hide quoted text
> Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows
> ear" strike a chord???
i think in my case a closer analogy would be.
making a loose sow's ear from a tight sow's ear pattern.
show/hide quoted text
> > I already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i go up
> > more
> > then i may have to make more reduction adjustments to
> > other areas
> > rather than increase the width of the side panel on the
> > size i am
> > currently using. I could probably go without the other
> > adjustments (ragan angle and front panel shape ) *BUT*
> > thats one
> > reason i like to sew, to customize and make unique
> > changes.
> > Thanks for any helpful advice,
> > robb
> Disclaimer: I am not a big fan of KwikSew patterns. I have
> tried several and never yet been satisfied with the fit,
> drafting, or design.
> That said, I would start over using this one of these or
> something similar:
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=9499
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5282.htm?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1
show/hide quoted text
> Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin tight. It
> seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique
> changes." often results in banging your head against a wall.
> Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+ years,
> you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major
> pattern alternations. ;-)
challenging activities have never stopped me from trying
something as a learning experience and making mistakes has never
scared me away from learning. as for learning i think people
learn more from their mistakes
sometimes one has to bang on the wall to understand the wall and
to know how challenging the wall really is.
I don't think i have tried to hide the fact that i just
*stumbled* into sewing about two years ago. When id did start
with even the tiniest sewing project i thought it was fun and i
quickly look for the challenging aspects when i start any new
hobby .
show/hide quoted text
> so give yourself a little more time sewing *exactly as the
> pattern designers intended*, and THEN start tweaking the
> design elements.That included following the "suggested
> fabric types", etc. I don't know what fabric you are using,
> however, if you try to make a garment from a pattern created
> to utilize the properties of 75% stretch knits, but
> substitute a woven (or even a knit with less stretch), you
> are doomed to lots of frustration and/or failure.
i do sew the straight patterns too but if i can not find a
pattern that suits my project then what am i to do but find
something close and try to alter ?
thanks again Beverly, for the helpful advice.
robb
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Posted by BEI Design on June 4, 2009, 2:51 am
robb wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> "BEI Design" wrote:
> i thought muslin was just a metaphor for a first pass
> sewing
> draft of a pattern.
> i am using this fabric for my muslin
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=AAA805
Ok, that appears to be within the range of "similar to the
specified fabric" and so probably close enough to the
pattern requirements to be perfectly acceptable. The words
"muslin" or "toile" are used interchangeably on this group
to mean "a first-draft-practice-mock-up of a pattern or
design". I wasn't challenging your use of the word, I was
concerned that you might have been using a woven or
non-stretch fabric. One very necessary requirement in
making a successful toile/muslin is to use fabric with
similar attributes to the real deal. Sorry...
show/hide quoted text
> and i plan to use this fabric in a different color.
>
http://www.rockywoods.com/Welcome-to-Rockywoods-Outdoor-Fabrics/4-way-stretch-Sun-Blocker-Fabric-Lavender
That should suit the suggested fabric for the pattern
nicely.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > of a raglan shirt pattern with a
> > > > > contrast
> > > > > panel on the both sides that goes from the arm
> > > > > pit down
> > > > > to the hem .
> > > > Pattern number?
> > > I am using this pattern (shirt only)
> > > http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=2881
> > Why are you using that pattern? From that site:
> > "The shirt, shorts and trunks are designed for two-way
> > stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise
> > grain. We
> > suggest using swimwear fabrics with spandex-Lycraš.
> > The men's pull-over, very close fitting shirt has short
> > raglan sleeves and a collar."
> I want to make a swim/rash guard shirt for some wave
> riding/boogie boarding and to provide some sun protection
> too. i
> thought starting with a swimwear style shirt pattern
> would be
> better or closer than trying to use a pajama or t-shirt
> pattern
> which is very loose.
I did not understand why you wanted to make major changes to
what seemed to be a less-than-perfect choice of patterns. I
also did not know that you WERE using a stretch fabric for
you muslin.
show/hide quoted text
> > > and i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit
> > > according
> > > to the
> > > sizing chart advice given at the bottom of the
> > > following
> > > page
> > > for having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a
> > > surgical
> > > glove.
>
http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm
show/hide quoted text
> > Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows
> > ear" strike a chord???
> i think in my case a closer analogy would be.
> making a loose sow's ear from a tight sow's ear pattern.
;-) Agreed. However, then you say:
show/hide quoted text
> > > I already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i
> > > go up
> > > more
> > > then i may have to make more reduction adjustments to
> > > other areas
> > > rather than increase the width of the side panel on
> > > the
> > > size i am
> > > currently using.
So I couldn't understand why you were using THAT pattern as
it apparently did not meet your needs/requirements. Going
up TWO SIZES and still not getting the desired result would
send me off in an entirely different (vis-a-vis pattern
selection) direction. But maybe that's just me. ;-)
show/hide quoted text
> > Disclaimer: I am not a big fan of KwikSew patterns. I
> > have
> > tried several and never yet been satisfied with the fit,
> > drafting, or design.
> > That said, I would start over using this one of these or
> > something similar:
> > http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=9499
> http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5282.htm?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1
> > Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin
> > tight. It
> > seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique
> > changes." often results in banging your head against a
> > wall.
> > Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+
> > years,
> > you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major
> > pattern alternations. ;-)
> challenging activities have never stopped me from trying
> something as a learning experience and making mistakes
> has never
> scared me away from learning. as for learning i think
> people
> learn more from their mistakes
> sometimes one has to bang on the wall to understand the
> wall and
> to know how challenging the wall really is.
show/hide quoted text
But, pity the innocent wall.... ;->
show/hide quoted text
> I don't think i have tried to hide the fact that i just
> *stumbled* into sewing about two years ago. When id did
> start
> with even the tiniest sewing project i thought it was fun
> and i
> quickly look for the challenging aspects when i start any
> new
> hobby .
I have to liken that to a desire my to race in the
Indianapolis 500. Looks like a ton of fun! But no matter
how many times I hit a wall or spin out or roll my vehicle,
those challenges really are not going to qualify me for
Memorial Day weekend. I will have to come up through the
ranks and that means starting out on small local tracks,
learning the vagaries of downshifting, exactly where and how
fast to enter a turn, how to accelerate out of the curves,
and learning all the other skills, a race at a time, over
many months or years. Then maybe I'll be able to race the
500. Well, after finding deep pocketed sponsors....
;-)
show/hide quoted text
> > so give yourself a little more time sewing *exactly as
> > the
> > pattern designers intended*, and THEN start tweaking the
> > design elements.That included following the "suggested
> > fabric types", etc. I don't know what fabric you are
> > using,
> > however, if you try to make a garment from a pattern
> > created
> > to utilize the properties of 75% stretch knits, but
> > substitute a woven (or even a knit with less stretch),
> > you
> > are doomed to lots of frustration and/or failure.
> i do sew the straight patterns too but if i can not find
> a
> pattern that suits my project then what am i to do but
> find
> something close and try to alter ?
Have you taken a class in pattern alteration? Or at a
minimum stocked your library with some good books on the
subject?
Robb, don't get me wrong. I admire your get-up-and-go
CAN-DO attitude. I really do. Just once in a while I
wonder why you have set yourself up to struggle so. This
was one of those times.
show/hide quoted text
> thanks again Beverly, for the helpful advice.
> robb
You're welcome, carry on....
Beverly
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Posted by Jenn Ridley on June 4, 2009, 8:22 am
show/hide quoted text
>I want to make a swim/rash guard shirt for some wave
>riding/boogie boarding and to provide some sun protection too. i
>thought starting with a swimwear style shirt pattern would be
>better or closer than trying to use a pajama or t-shirt pattern
>which is very loose.
Does it have to be raglan? If not, there's a few options out there. I
would think that a cycling jersey (Jalie 2216
show/hide quoted text
<http://www.jalie.com/sewingpatterns/patterncovers/2212.html>, Green
Pepper 402) would be good for this -- just cut the hem even. Or kwik
show/hide quoted text
sew 3570 <http://www.kwiksew.com/catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3570>.
Jalie 2212
show/hide quoted text
<http://www.jalie.com/sewingpatterns/patterncovers/2212.html> has a
nice fitted T-shirt -- should be easy enough to lengthen the sleeves.
Starting over might be easier than trying to get this one to work.
Then again, if you're in it for the challenge.....
--
Jenn Ridley : jridley@newsguy.com
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>> robb wrote:
>> > i made a muslin