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Posted by Lew Hodgett on February 9, 2008, 3:47 pm
RE: Subject
Find a shop that deals with the "rag trade".
Here in SoCal we have several.
If the machine is not at least 75 years old, you probably don't want it.
If you have lots of $, check out SailRite.
The customize off shore stuff for the sailor who wants to make his own
sails.
Lew
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Posted by Jordan on February 9, 2008, 10:08 pm
Singer 132K6
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Posted by Anon on February 10, 2008, 8:52 am
Hi All
Yep 132k6 is good if you want to do tarps for a B-double or stitch polishing
mops for buffing.
Or serious motor trimming with plastics.
It is a lot heavier than a 111W.
A 132 is not good for lighter work
Take a trip to the nearest industrial sewing supplier and ask to see the
range of needles for both machines.
For normal upholstery or sail making a 111 is fine up to a fabric thickness
of a bit over 3/16"
After that the 132 comes in.
But doing lighter work on a 132 is not good.
The 132 does not like light weight threads at all. Light work is spoiled by
the heavy threads required Needles from about size 22 up to the equivalent
of a 3" framing gun nail.
Normal sewing thread will break. Special threads are required.
The 111w only just copes with normal sewing threads as used on a domestic
machine the min needle size is 16 it is happier with an 18 or bigger
If you get one of these machines do not try to run it at 3-5000 rpm the
normal speed for an industrial machine these days.
Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and
650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but
the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.
Run em any faster and the beautifully (Hand) honed and hardened bearings
will simply seize, lock up and break something. And that will mean goodbye.
Final tip Use Teflon added oil, is a huge improvement compared to the normal
white machine oil on the hook and base. The rotating part you put the bobbin
in. it will run much cooler
Cheers
Macka Australia
PS Hi Don Nichols.. I spoke to you on this forum about 7 years ago. (you
gave me good advice too)
Thank You
John McNamara
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Posted by Anon on February 12, 2008, 2:04 am
Hi Wayne
If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. The sound of
hardened and polished steel snapping is not good.
and the spare parts (not counting the labour) will cost you more than the
cost of the machine. If you can get them.
The 132 can do masonite, but the stuff they use in cars and upholstery is
not flooring underlay. it is soft and flexible.
Cheers
John McNamara
show/hide quoted text
>> I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for
>> $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas
>> awning work. They work good on leather, too.
>> Steve
> I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of
> business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One
> nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the
> machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going
> through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight
> layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my
> surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it
> was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the
> machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of
> respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
> careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .
> The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford
> it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine
> that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It
> probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be
> easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around
> not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit
> easier.
> Wayne
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Posted by NoOne N Particular on February 12, 2008, 12:07 pm
Anon wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hi Wayne
>
> If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.
No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
I don't have big enough balls to try it.
Wayne
P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
boat canvas windows.
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>> $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas
>> awning work. They work good on leather, too.
>> Steve
> I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of
> business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One
> nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the
> machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going
> through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight
> layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my
> surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it
> was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the
> machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of
> respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
> careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .
> The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford
> it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine
> that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It
> probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be
> easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around
> not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit
> easier.
> Wayne