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Posted by Kate XXXXXX on February 12, 2008, 2:14 pm
NoOne N Particular wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Anon wrote:
>> Hi Wayne
>> If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.
>
> No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
> and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
> masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
> I don't have big enough balls to try it.
>
> Wayne
>
> P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
> boat canvas windows.
And there was me thinking you meant fibreglass fabric!
Good luck with the project. Do keep us up to date on how it goes.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by Ivan Vegvary on February 11, 2008, 12:13 am
show/hide quoted text
> HI
> look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
> thousands made.
I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am going
to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto restoration. I
didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't have any leather. He
found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We laid a piece of fabric on
top of it and sewed through the pair with the greatest of ease. No problem.
Ivan Vegvary
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Posted by SteveB on February 11, 2008, 1:25 am
show/hide quoted text
>> HI
>> look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
>> thousands made.
> I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
> repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am
> going to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto
> restoration. I didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't
> have any leather. He found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We
> laid a piece of fabric on top of it and sewed through the pair with the
> greatest of ease. No problem.
> Ivan Vegvary
Looking up my 111W155 serial number in the Singer manual tells me mine was
made in 1957. They are a workhorse. Ultimate Sew and Vac have them for
$710 each, probably refurbished and tweaked. Comes with table, stand and
motor.
Consew makes a mongo unit that we used for our canvas awning business, but
IIRC, it was pretty spendy. I don't know. I did the welding for the
frames, and my partner did the canvas.
Going to make some of my own awnings for my house this spring. I still have
quite a few awnings hanging around Las Vegas from when I was a contractor.
They're very nice ........ if you don't have to pay retail. ;-)
Steve
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Posted by NoOne N Particular on July 2, 2007, 1:01 pm
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
I found an old Singer model 152 (walking foot straight stitch) from about 1940.
A man was selling his marine canvas shop and had it setting in a corner. He
had three newer machines that he used and this one had just been taking up space
for a long time. It had the motor replace with a bigger one at some point. I
got it and the table for $200.
When I got it home and got it all cleaned up, I started playing with it just to
see how it worked. One of the things I did was to see just how much heavy vinyl
fabric it would go through easily. It went through 8 layers like they weren't
even there. I'll bet it would treat a finger the same way so I give it a VERY
healty respect.
However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I would
suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have found myself
wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking the end of a stitch,
etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the foot and drag the piece back a
little, drop the foot, and go again. This leaves a long piece of the thread
open where you moved the piece but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around.
This is ok for smaller pieces, but when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was
a little impractical.
Wayne
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Posted by Pogonip on July 2, 2007, 1:42 pm
NoOne N Particular wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I
> would suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have
> found myself wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking
> the end of a stitch, etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the foot
> and drag the piece back a little, drop the foot, and go again. This
> leaves a long piece of the thread open where you moved the piece but it
> works. or 2), Turn the piece around. This is ok for smaller pieces, but
> when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was a little impractical.
>
> Wayne
Do you have a stitch length lever? If so, lower the number of stitches
at the end of your seam to make very small stitches close together.
Nearly on top of each other. I do that, not with the stitch lever, but
by holding the fabric under the needle for the last 3 or 4 stitches,
which does lock the end of the seam. You may find it easier to use the
stitch length lever.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
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>> Hi Wayne
>> If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.
>
> No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
> and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
> masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
> I don't have big enough balls to try it.
>
> Wayne
>
> P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
> boat canvas windows.