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Posted by NoOne N Particular on July 3, 2007, 12:04 pm
Pogonip wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> NoOne N Particular wrote:
>> However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I
>> would suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have
>> found myself wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking
>> the end of a stitch, etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the
>> foot and drag the piece back a little, drop the foot, and go again.
>> This leaves a long piece of the thread open where you moved the piece
>> but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around. This is ok for smaller
>> pieces, but when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was a little
>> impractical.
>> Wayne
>
> Do you have a stitch length lever? If so, lower the number of stitches
> at the end of your seam to make very small stitches close together.
> Nearly on top of each other. I do that, not with the stitch lever, but
> by holding the fabric under the needle for the last 3 or 4 stitches,
> which does lock the end of the seam. You may find it easier to use the
> stitch length lever.
The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and not
easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch length
you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation, then
press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine. I
think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
Wayne
|
|
Posted by Hunter on July 3, 2007, 5:13 pm
|
| The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and
not
| easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch
length
| you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
then
| press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
| number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine.
I
| think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
| stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
|
| Wayne
That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep 12
vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
that can be done even when running at full speed.
If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that could
do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
inclined person to understand.
The older Consew machines are good choices too.
|
|
Posted by NoOne N Particular on July 4, 2007, 12:38 am
Hunter wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>
> |
> | The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and
> not
> | easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch
> length
> | you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
> then
> | press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
> | number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine.
> I
> | think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
> | stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
> |
> | Wayne
>
> That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
> various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep 12
> vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
> None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
> have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
> that can be done even when running at full speed.
> If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that could
> do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
> 138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
> with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
> knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
> maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
> inclined person to understand.
> The older Consew machines are good choices too.
>
>
I think in my intital post I said that it was a Singer Model 152 but it is
really a Model 111W. To be more precise, 111W152 from around 1940.
For a picture, go here and scroll down to the 152:
http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/111w.htm
This is actually one of the machines that became the "standard" in the industry
and the parts for this machine were readily interchangeable with other
manufacturers for quite a number of years. A great many parts for this machine
are still readily available. If my info is correct, all but the major castings.
Wayne
Wayne
|
|
Posted by Ron Anderson on July 4, 2007, 9:58 am
Actually not uncommon at all for industrial machines, I can think of several
off the top of my head, the 111W and it clones , Singer 241/251, 245, Union
special 64000, most any industrial overlock, etc.
--
Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
PO Box 60, Sand Lake, NY 12153
518-469-5133
http://www.singera1sewing.com
http://www.a1sewingmachine.com
show/hide quoted text
> |
> | The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running,
> and
> not
> | easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the
> stitch
> length
> | you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
> then
> | press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until
> the
> | number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the
> machine.
> I
> | think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so
> the
> | stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
> |
> | Wayne
> That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
> various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep
> 12
> vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
> None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
> have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
> that can be done even when running at full speed.
> If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that
> could
> do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
> 138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
> with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
> knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
> maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
> inclined person to understand.
> The older Consew machines are good choices too.
>
|
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 2, 2007, 10:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> little, drop the foot, and go again. This leaves a long piece of the thread
> open where you moved the piece but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around.
There's also option 3: decrease the stitch length to near 0 or 0, and/or
hold on to the fabric and keep it from feeding for a few stitches at the
end of the seam. Either will lock a line of stitches.
Kay
|
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>> However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I
>> would suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have
>> found myself wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking
>> the end of a stitch, etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the
>> foot and drag the piece back a little, drop the foot, and go again.
>> This leaves a long piece of the thread open where you moved the piece
>> but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around. This is ok for smaller
>> pieces, but when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was a little
>> impractical.
>> Wayne
>
> Do you have a stitch length lever? If so, lower the number of stitches
> at the end of your seam to make very small stitches close together.
> Nearly on top of each other. I do that, not with the stitch lever, but
> by holding the fabric under the needle for the last 3 or 4 stitches,
> which does lock the end of the seam. You may find it easier to use the
> stitch length lever.