Crepe backed satin

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Subject Author Date
Crepe backed satin S R Glickman 11-27-2006
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Posted by S R Glickman on November 27, 2006, 10:10 am
I'm thinking of making my 14 year old daughter an outfit for her
brother's wedding with crepe backed satin. I'm looking at butterick
pattern 4021 which claims to be easy.

Does anyone know if it's worth buying the material cheaply from a UK
ebay store ( £2.75 to £3.50) or if I have to spend £8 or more from a
'normal' shop to get something decent? Bearing in mind, I don't know
if she'll wear it again !

Also, how easy is this kind of fabric to work with? Any hints or
tips?

I've worked with velvet before but not really anything as slippery as
this.

Many thanks

Susan
--
xsrg100@hotmail.com
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Posted by Kate Dicey on November 27, 2006, 12:02 pm
S R Glickman wrote:
> I'm thinking of making my 14 year old daughter an outfit for her
> brother's wedding with crepe backed satin. I'm looking at butterick
> pattern 4021 which claims to be easy.

Nice pattern.
>
> Does anyone know if it's worth buying the material cheaply from a UK
> ebay store ( £2.75 to £3.50) or if I have to spend £8 or more from a
> 'normal' shop to get something decent? Bearing in mind, I don't know
> if she'll wear it again !

Then no - they both behave equally badly!
>
> Also, how easy is this kind of fabric to work with? Any hints or
> tips?

I'm the Queen of Cheap Poly Satin - I've sewn masses of it! Take a look
at what can be done with it on my web site. It's fantastic stuff if you
keep several things in mind...

Things to be aware of:

Puckered seams: ALL straight cut seams will pucker. This can be
mitigated by sewing it as if you were sewing bias cut fabric, using a
small very narrow zigzag. But it won't work miracles... And the
expensive stuff behaves no better than the cheap stuff!

Ironing: it's very easily marked! Start cool and work up.

Basting: hand baste tricky bits! The damned stuff is so slippery it's
quicker than doing it the 'easy' way!

Use FINE pins and a size 60 or 70 needle on the machine. And decent
poly thread. I usually use Empress Mills 120's poly for both machine
and overlocker. Drima is far too tightly wound ans will pucker even
more. Gutterman is OK...

Use sew in interfacing! The fusible stuff doesn't stick to it.

Clean finish long skirt seams, even if fully lined. The stuff frays
almost as much as silk dupion! A two thread overlock is best for this.

> I've worked with velvet before but not really anything as slippery as
> this.

And you never will again! Velvet is MUCH better behaved! :)

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by S R Glickman on November 27, 2006, 3:26 pm
Many thanks Kate for your swift reply.


>I'm the Queen of Cheap Poly Satin - I've sewn masses of it! Take a look
>at what can be done with it on my web site. It's fantastic stuff if you
>keep several things in mind...

And you have years of experience and lots of skill!
>
>Things to be aware of:
>
>Puckered seams: ALL straight cut seams will pucker. This can be
>mitigated by sewing it as if you were sewing bias cut fabric, using a
>small very narrow zigzag. But it won't work miracles... And the
>expensive stuff behaves no better than the cheap stuff!

I think I get the message!

>
>Ironing: it's very easily marked! Start cool and work up.

Dry, I pressume, not steam?
>
>Basting: hand baste tricky bits! The damned stuff is so slippery it's
>quicker than doing it the 'easy' way!

This gets better :))
>
>Use FINE pins and a size 60 or 70 needle on the machine. And decent
>poly thread. I usually use Empress Mills 120's poly for both machine
>and overlocker. Drima is far too tightly wound ans will pucker even
>more. Gutterman is OK...

OK

>
>Use sew in interfacing! The fusible stuff doesn't stick to it.

Could I sew in the fusible kind?

Fine or medium weight?
>
>Clean finish long skirt seams, even if fully lined.

What does 'clean finish' mean?

>
>> I've worked with velvet before but not really anything as slippery as
>> this.
>
>And you never will again! Velvet is MUCH better behaved! :)

I get the feeling I'm not going to like this job - if I decide to do
it !

Maybe we'll keep looking round the shops - but everything is so
expensive and not nearly as nice.

Ho, hum.

Thanks again

Susan





--
xsrg100@hotmail.com
Please remove the 'x' to reply

Posted by Kate Dicey on November 27, 2006, 6:08 pm
S R Glickman wrote:
> Many thanks Kate for your swift reply.
>
>
>
>>I'm the Queen of Cheap Poly Satin - I've sewn masses of it! Take a look
>>at what can be done with it on my web site. It's fantastic stuff if you
>>keep several things in mind...
>
>
> And you have years of experience and lots of skill!

Thank you. :) In this instance, certainly lots of experience!
>
>>Things to be aware of:
>>
>>Puckered seams: ALL straight cut seams will pucker. This can be
>>mitigated by sewing it as if you were sewing bias cut fabric, using a
>>small very narrow zigzag. But it won't work miracles... And the
>>expensive stuff behaves no better than the cheap stuff!
>
>
> I think I get the message!

I've made some fantastic costumes with it, and it likes serged seams
best, but there are some areas and styles where this just isn't practical...
>
>
>>Ironing: it's very easily marked! Start cool and work up.
>
>
> Dry, I pressume, not steam?
Not particularly... It's washable, after all. But frequently it starts
to mark before the iron is hot enough for proper steam, and you don't
want spit marks! Test! :)
>
>>Basting: hand baste tricky bits! The damned stuff is so slippery it's
>>quicker than doing it the 'easy' way!
>
>
> This gets better :))
>
>>Use FINE pins and a size 60 or 70 needle on the machine. And decent
>>poly thread. I usually use Empress Mills 120's poly for both machine
>>and overlocker. Drima is far too tightly wound ans will pucker even
>>more. Gutterman is OK...
>
>
> OK
>
>
>>Use sew in interfacing! The fusible stuff doesn't stick to it.
>
>
> Could I sew in the fusible kind?

NO! When you press it, it might just stick in parts, leaving a lumpy
and uneven finish... :(
>
> Fine or medium weight?

I usually find a soft medium weight is best.
>
>>Clean finish long skirt seams, even if fully lined.
>
>
> What does 'clean finish' mean?

Erm... Overcasting or finishing the edges. Catch-all term covering all
finishes from a Hong Kong type down to a serged/overlocked one. :)
>
>
>>>I've worked with velvet before but not really anything as slippery as
>>>this.
>>
>>And you never will again! Velvet is MUCH better behaved! :)
>
>
> I get the feeling I'm not going to like this job - if I decide to do
> it !

Oh, do it! Once mastered, you'll never be afraid of it again! :) And
the cheap and cheerful stuff isn't always the worst to sew with. The
gold ball gown on my web site (What The Dickens project) was expensive
John Lewis £8.99 type stuff, and it was a nightmare compared with the
£3.50 red stuff I used for the bridesmaids elsewhere on the site... The
worst of the lot was the £12.99 stuff 'bought from the warehouse for a
very good price' brought in by a customer... ARGH!
>
> Maybe we'll keep looking round the shops - but everything is so
> expensive and not nearly as nice.

Just take care, don't rush it, and yell if you get stuck!

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by S R Glickman on November 29, 2006, 1:44 pm
Hi Kate

>Oh, do it! Once mastered, you'll never be afraid of it again! :) And
>the cheap and cheerful stuff isn't always the worst to sew with
>Just take care, don't rush it, and yell if you get stuck!

OK. You've persuaded me :)))

I've bought the patterns ( Butterick 4603 for the top as I don't fancy
a zip all the way down the back of the other top) and we're waiting
for material samples.

To be continued.....


Susan

--
xsrg100@hotmail.com
Please remove the 'x' to reply

Page 1 of 7       1 2 3 > last >>
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