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Sewing Textiles - Sewing: clothes, furnishings, costumes, etc.
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Posted by Louise on December 12, 2006, 2:49 pm
Hello,
I am trying to make pants for a five year old boy who is very chubby.
His waist is 31", hip 36"
, side length is 29". My problem is that I do not know how to shorten
the crotch. I have never
had to shorten a crotch. Do any of you know how to measure for a
crotch? The store bought pants he has are all way too long in the
crotch area. I would really like to make him some
pants that fit him.
Thanks, Louise
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Posted by CypSew on December 12, 2006, 5:05 pm
I use two methods of measuring the crotch length in pants. #1. Have the
person sit in a straight back chair, such as a dining one. Measure from the
waist line down to the top of the chair seat.
#2. Measure the person by bringing the tape measure up between the legs
from the back waist to the front waist. This measure then is divided in
half for the front and back. Of course, some people with a big stomach may
need a bit more in the front than the back. In that case, you might want to
make the front a little longer than the back.
It will be a good idea to make a muslin, that is for a sample: make a pair
in scrap fabric, I use old sheets, pillowcases, etc for this; some people
find cheap large remnants at a good price at the fabric stores. I find if I
made a muslin for my children/grandchildren, it's not necessary to measure
them each time I want to make something new, that is until I notice they
were outgrowing the items.
HTH,
Emily
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on December 12, 2006, 10:42 pm
> I am trying to make pants for a five year old boy who is very chubby.
> His waist is 31", hip 36"
> , side length is 29". My problem is that I do not know how to shorten
> the crotch. I have never
> had to shorten a crotch. Do any of you know how to measure for a
You'll need a couple of measurements for this. Both are taken by tying
twill tape around his middle at the point where the bottom of the waistband
is going to sit. Since 5 year olds are squirmy, I'd suggest then putting
some stickers or a dot of ink on his skin at CF, CB and side seam/waistline
intersections.
Crotch depth is determined by measuring from the side seam/waistline
intersection over the hip and straight down to a flat, hard surface the
child is sitting on... a table or a step is perfect for this.
Now take a look at your pattern:
Draw in the seamlines for the crotch curve and
the waistline and inseam. You'll notice that the seamline for the crotch
curve near the inseam extends out at a 90 degree angle to the grainline
markings on the pattern. Draw that line across the pattern to the
outseam -- just a straight line perpendicular to the grainline at the level
of the crotch extension.
The measurement you've just taken should be a little less than the distance
from the waistband seamline to the line you just drew. How much less?
That's a hard one for me to guesstimate -- I'd guess a minimum of an inch,
but you can hone that fairly easily at the muslin stage.
Anyhow, fold out length from your pattern that's in excess of your
crotch depth measurement + 1" -- I do it where it's least likely to
make you re-true a seamline, which usually means right about the high
hip position. (I do adult pants for both genders, so I'm a little
iffy on ease needed in kids' patterns)
The second measurement you need for this is the total crotch length. What
you want is the measurement from the CF/waistline intersection, through
the legs, to the CB/waistline intersection. Add an inch to this. (Again,
my best guesstimate for ease for a child -- and again, it can be change
in the muslin fitting.)
Now measure the seamline of the front and back crotch curves -- this sum
should be your total crotch distance. If your measurement is too big for
the pattern, you can get some extra by scooping the (I'd guess front curve
for this child) pattern's curve slightly.
Make up a muslin for the pattern now, marking in front and back grainlines,
nominal waistline and adding an extra couple of inches of extra height at the
waistline, so you can tuck the extra fabric under some elastic for fitting
purposes. Fitting will be easier if you sew the two fronts together,
the two backs together, and then the two side seams and the inseam.
The typical pattern method of sewing the crotch curve front to back with
one leg inside the other doesn't work nearly as well for fitting purposes.
Put them on the child, and pin the muslin to the elastic at
CF, CB and side seams, and watch him walk and sit. If the crotch depth
is not correct, the pants will look saggy or you'll see binding as he
walks. Readjust at the waistline as needed.
Then watch when he sits down. If the CB of the pants dips down, he needs
more crotch extension -- he's deeper front to back than the pattern allows
for. Rip the crotch seam from inseam to inseam and insert a gusset that
allows him to sit correctly.
If the crotch extension is too long for him, they'll look like clown pants,
with extra fabric front and back. Resew the crotch from inseam to inseam
taking out the extra.
Transfer the changes to the pattern.
Kay
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Posted by on December 13, 2006, 10:37 am
Men's (boys') pants are measured different than women's. Establish the
waistline with a piece of elastic tied around the child's waist.
Measure from the elastic to the floor in three areas--center front,
center back, and side seam. Now measure from the inside of the child's
leg to the floor to establish the inseam. Use the longest outseam
measurement to draft the pattern, or to measure on the pattern. The
pattern should be purchased by the hip measurement; the waist is easily
adjusted. Then make other changes to the pattern. And by all means do
a muslin first. Only the front and back are necessary; you don't need
pockets or waistbands. Use basting stitches to put it together, so it
can be easily ripped. Pinch fabric, pin out--whatever is needed to
give a good fit. Then rub all the seams with a wide marker to mark the
seams. Rip it apart, cut off all the seam allowances, and sew in the
pinches. Then use the muslin for the new pattern, adding the seam
allowances back on. If you're happy with the result, use the muslin to
make a new, permanent pattern for more pants. He'll love them!
Teri
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Posted by andreathebookworm@yahoo.com on December 14, 2006, 10:39 am
I'm fitting a pair of muslin pants and I have wrinkles straight across
the fabric at the back the crotch line. What do I need to do to remove
these, add or subtract fabric?
Thanks,
Andrea
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