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Sewing Textiles - Sewing: clothes, furnishings, costumes, etc.
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Posted by IMS on February 13, 2007, 6:16 pm
Welcome aboard, Angeline! This is a very helpful group!
-Irene
show/hide quoted text
>Thank you all so much for the detailed instructions! I think I can
>manage now! I couldn't get how to have it on both sides of the fabric
>but you all have put good visionals together (thank you thank you)
>I'm pretty good at following instructions.
>just getting back into sewing at 54 - use to sew my clothes in high
>school on a treadle and old wobbly singer - loved those machines. but
>stopped sewing and tried to be corporate for about what seems a
>millions years - that drove me to having neck surgery (years and years
>of computers.... ;-) so i bought myself a fancy machine several
>years back - but my ex put it in storage.. yeah ex! ;-) i know you
>can imagine the reason why when he put my machine in a storage unit
>while i recovered from surgery - fought with the workers comp system
>wallowed in and out of depression , finally got a divorce and work
>comp settlement (9 years later) and i found my machine again - and my
>fabric - it's been like old home week finding my fabric :) ;) but i
>find i never learned to use my machine - i have found a few creative
>blocks - and am trying to learn to sew again! whew... i guess that
>was kinda an introductions for you all. i haven't been lurking, but
>i've been offline for about 9 years now also - am starting to come
>back online again.. i know exactly where to go to ask this question
>and i am grateful for your help!
>take care
>angeline
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Posted by CATS on February 6, 2007, 8:14 pm
I can't guarantee that this is the "right" way but it's how
my mother taught me -
Take a long double length of thread and put it through the
needle doubled again (you will be sewing with four strands,
the thickness holds in heavier fabric more firmly, if you
are sewing finer fabrics do this with two strands)
take a small stitch through all layers where you want your
mark and leave a good 1.5" tail sticking up from the surface
of the fabric
take a second small stitch (I usually form a cross stitch on
the back)and this time leave a loop 1.5" long
snip of the thread with a 1.5" tail
now you can "pop" the pattern off the fabric carefully to
leave just a small hole
ease the layers of fabric apart and cut the stitches so that
there is a "tuft" of thread at your mark on each fabric
piece
You will find it best to do all your tacks on each piece
before cutting any. You can use different coloured threads
for matching tacks if you think that will help. The tacks
are a good way to use up cheap cotton threads but be careful
about using strong colours as you don't want to have any
colour transfer, and I do not recommend poor quality poly
thread. If you need to mark four pieces you can make the
loops/tails longer but I would then take three stitches for
added security. And remember to match your fabric weight to
the number of threads and needle size - four strands of
cheap thread sewn with a "crowbar" will leave holes in silk!
The cut tacks will easily pull out when you are finished
with them, but try to avoid too many machine sewn tiny
stitches through them as this can make removal difficult.
There are many experts here who can probably describe this
better but this might help get you started until you hear
from them.
--
Cheryl & the Cats in OZ
o o o o o o
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( > Y < ) ( > Y < ) ( > Y < )
Enness Boofhead Donut
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau
:I am frustrated with pattern markings and getting them on
both pieces
: of fabric. Saw a sewing program on tv and they used
tailor tacks.
: they also used a special cotton thread from japan to do
these. but
: they didn't show how to tailor tack. any explainations
would be
: greatly appreciated!
:
: thank you and take care
:
: angeline
:
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Posted by MEAnderson on February 8, 2007, 10:54 am
Angeline,
Something I was taught in college in my textile class was to use strands
of cotton embroidery floss - one strand for a single layer and two strands
for double layer. Just pull it through the fabric and leave 1 1/2 inch
tails on top and bottom. The cotton floss will stick to the fabric and you
don't need to make a loop. Saves time and floss. I have used this method
for 38 years and it works great.
show/hide quoted text
>I am frustrated with pattern markings and getting them on both pieces
> of fabric. Saw a sewing program on tv and they used tailor tacks.
> they also used a special cotton thread from japan to do these. but
> they didn't show how to tailor tack. any explainations would be
> greatly appreciated!
> thank you and take care
> angeline
>
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Posted by Joy Beeson on February 8, 2007, 8:29 pm
On Thu, 8 Feb 2007 09:54:06 -0600, "MEAnderson"
show/hide quoted text
> . . . use strands
> of cotton embroidery floss
I use a single strand of whatever thread is handy -- same thread for
basting, thread-marking, and tailor tacks. Unless I want to
color-code.
I leave half-inch loops, take at least two stitches in each place, and
always cut the thread after each tack, *especially* when making an X
with two tacks. I must be careful to use sharp scissors when cutting
between layers, but otherwise have no trouble with slippery threads. I
find that short, quarter-inch tufts of thread are less likely to be
caught on something and pulled out than longer threads. Also less
likely to be mistaken for a piece of thread that was just floating
around and get picked off on purpose -- oh, the sinking sensation as
the slight resistance informs you just a split second too late!
My home-made patterns have a diamond hole at each tack, made by
snipping off a folded corner. Or if I've been using the tracing wheel
up until now, I'll cut the paper with the point of the needle before
taking the stitch, then pull the pattern off the tack before cutting
between the layers.
Tangent topic: I've recently learned to thread mark through a pattern
by putting the needle down through the same hole where it came up --
often one of a series of needle-cut slits along the line being marked.
If two layers are being marked, one can loosen the stitches, having
*not* cut the thread after marking, so that there is plenty to pull
back in. (Sometimes I baste with the thread still attached to the
spool.) Then the layers can be separated and cut between, leaving
tailor tacks along the marked line
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
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>manage now! I couldn't get how to have it on both sides of the fabric
>but you all have put good visionals together (thank you thank you)
>I'm pretty good at following instructions.
>just getting back into sewing at 54 - use to sew my clothes in high
>school on a treadle and old wobbly singer - loved those machines. but
>stopped sewing and tried to be corporate for about what seems a
>millions years - that drove me to having neck surgery (years and years
>of computers.... ;-) so i bought myself a fancy machine several
>years back - but my ex put it in storage.. yeah ex! ;-) i know you
>can imagine the reason why when he put my machine in a storage unit
>while i recovered from surgery - fought with the workers comp system
>wallowed in and out of depression , finally got a divorce and work
>comp settlement (9 years later) and i found my machine again - and my
>fabric - it's been like old home week finding my fabric :) ;) but i
>find i never learned to use my machine - i have found a few creative
>blocks - and am trying to learn to sew again! whew... i guess that
>was kinda an introductions for you all. i haven't been lurking, but
>i've been offline for about 9 years now also - am starting to come
>back online again.. i know exactly where to go to ask this question
>and i am grateful for your help!
>take care
>angeline