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Sewing Textiles - Sewing: clothes, furnishings, costumes, etc.
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Posted by on December 27, 2005, 10:24 pm
My latest project to complete is a vest woven from linen and dark wool.
Although a seemingly simple garment, I tore my hair out over for hours
trying to understand how to get the back neck and shoulders right. I
drafted it from the same book that I got the jacket formula from but
there is obviously something wrong with it.
I managed to plow through and get it done but I need some help before
doing this again.
js
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PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com
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Posted by Pat in Arkansas on December 27, 2005, 10:48 pm
Great job Jack! Buttons are beautiful, and the vest is very nice and
warm-looking...........good work!
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Posted by CypSew on December 28, 2005, 12:31 am
Jack, the vest is a beautiful piece of handiwork, especially the buttons,
which are gorgeous. Thanks for sharing the photos.
Emily
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Posted by on December 28, 2005, 9:53 am
Dear Jack,
The end results are great, but you shouldn't have had such trouble.
The back neck facing is traced off the back, rather than drafted from
scratch; then, if it's cut on the bias, it will fit easily around the
neck. Pressing with lots of steam also helps to shape it. This piece
should be added to the back before the fronts are sewn to it.
Try finding a book that shows you how to draft a tailored men's shirt.
This is what is used in industry as the basis for all menswear tops.
You would then always start with the correct slope at the shoulders.
The basic shirt does not have yokes, collar or front bands; these are
all details that are made from the basic shape, and are drafted from
your personal measurements. To design, you simply trace around the
template to get started, then add the details desired.
The buttons are beautiful. I hope you're putting labels or some other
documentation on all your pieces, not only your clothing projects, but
everything. All will someday will become valuable heirlooms.
Teri
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Posted by Jack Schmidling on December 28, 2005, 7:49 pm
gjones2938@yahoo.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Dear Jack,
>
> The end results are great, but you shouldn't have had such trouble.
> The back neck facing is traced off the back, rather than drafted from
> scratch; then, if it's cut on the bias, it will fit easily around the
> neck. Pressing with lots of steam also helps to shape it. This piece
> should be added to the back before the fronts are sewn to it......
If I understand what you are saying, this is not the way this one works.
The back neck is an integral part of the front... sort of like a long
handle. Incidentally, very wastefull of hand spun/woven fabric.
show/hide quoted text
> Try finding a book that shows you how to draft a tailored men's shirt.
> This is what is used in industry as the basis for all menswear tops.
> You would then always start with the correct slope at the shoulders.
> The basic shirt does not have yokes, collar or front bands; these are
> all details that are made from the basic shape....
Interesting... now where is that book?
show/hide quoted text
> The buttons are beautiful. I hope you're putting labels or some other
> documentation on all your pieces....
I toyed with that but seems like I have to invest big bucks in a
computerized sewing machine to make them. I suspect someone out there
makes custom labels for peanuts by comparison.
js
--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com
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>
> The end results are great, but you shouldn't have had such trouble.
> The back neck facing is traced off the back, rather than drafted from
> scratch; then, if it's cut on the bias, it will fit easily around the
> neck. Pressing with lots of steam also helps to shape it. This piece
> should be added to the back before the fronts are sewn to it......