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Posted by Sarah Dale on November 15, 2006, 5:25 pm
Juno wrote:
I third Kwik Sew. I like the book sewing for toddlers. It comes with a
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> master patter that has multiple sizes and styles. Just don't forget to
> buy tracing paper so you can draw out the patterns. You don't want to
> cut your master pattern. The book is well worth the money because it
> covers a lot of sizes.
Hi,
My copy of Kwik-Sew sewing for toddlers arrived today. I haven't had
much chance to look at it yet though. First thing I did was to check the
master patterns were there, and the second thing was to make sure DD
didn't eat or rip them! LOL! (She was sitting on my lap as I opened the
parcel).
I managed to pick this up for just under 10UKP including postage through
Amazon marketplace.
I'm totally not into childrens clothes sizes yet, what sort of age does
T1 cover? I noticed it was for a 20" chest - DD's chest is nearly that
already and shes only 10 months old! I must measure her length - I would
say height but she's not walking yet.
Now, I must work out where to buy large quantities of tracing paper in
the UK (I usually use grease proof paper but that is not necessarily the
cheapest way to go) and find some time...... or hope that by the time DD
grows into the first pattern size, I might have more time to sew!
Sarah
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Posted by Juno on November 15, 2006, 8:29 pm
Sarah Dale wrote:
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>
> I'm totally not into childrens clothes sizes yet, what sort of age does
> T1 cover? I noticed it was for a 20" chest - DD's chest is nearly that
> already and shes only 10 months old! I must measure her length - I would
> say height but she's not walking yet.
>
> Now, I must work out where to buy large quantities of tracing paper in
> the UK (I usually use grease proof paper but that is not necessarily the
> cheapest way to go) and find some time...... or hope that by the time DD
> grows into the first pattern size, I might have more time to sew!
>
> Sarah
Children's clothes as with adults you need to measure. Sizes are not the
same as RTW. I do think though that Kwik sew is pretty close. Just don't
hold me to it. Ask Kate about tracing paper, She's probably your best
information source on that.
Kwik Sews children's things go together rather easily. I think you'll
be very pleased with the results.
Have fun.
I just ordered a Kwik Sew pattern, KS-2704, for feetie PJ's today. My 4
y/o grandson was very upset that the Sponge Bob fleece ones I made him
no longer fit. When DD told me, I reminded her that I made them 2 years
ago. That will be part of my xmas sewing. His bog brother will be
getting flannel PJ pants.
Juno
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on November 16, 2006, 5:42 am
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> Now, I must work out where to buy large quantities of tracing paper in
> the UK (I usually use grease proof paper but that is not necessarily the
> cheapest way to go) and find some time...... or hope that by the time DD
> grows into the first pattern size, I might have more time to sew!
Plain white tissue paper works, and it's very cheap in the US. So does
wax paper, which may be your greaseproof paper -- it's a thin paper
coated with paraffin wax, used for covering foods before clingfilm became
available. Use something moderately dull to trace on it -- a fork tine
works well. Heavy polyethylene or vinyl film also works, of the sort
that might be used to make a temporary window. With light behind something
to be traced, almost any lightweight paper will work -- my standard
is unprinted newsprint.
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Posted by Joy Beeson on November 17, 2006, 10:09 am
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 22:25:33 +0000, Sarah Dale
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> Now, I must work out where to buy large quantities of tracing paper in
> the UK (I usually use grease proof paper but that is not necessarily the
> cheapest way to go)
Anything flat and reasonably thin that comes in rolls or large sheets
will do. (well, it shouldn't be stretchy or fuzzy -- been there, done
that, threw away the patterns.) And if you can hang it on a nail, it
doesn't even have to be reasonably thin. Slopers, in particular, are
easier to use when made of cardboard. (A sloper is a pattern used to
design patterns. It has no seam allowances and the darts are cut out,
so that you can trace around it to mark the seam lines of your new
pattern.)
Tissue paper is flimsy, but it does come in large pieces, and you can
see through it, so if there's nothing else, and if you don't plan to
use the pattern more than two or three times, it will work.
If paper is rumpled, you can dry-iron it. (Shortly after we moved,
before I'd found a source of newsprint, I made several patterns on
packing paper.)
If you can't see through the paper and haven't got a light table or a
large window or a glass-topped table you can put a lamp under, buy
some typist's carbon paper. A sheet can be used many times for
pattern copying -- I have four sheets of single-use paper that have
been in my pattern box ever since a typewriter and a stack of
carbonsets was a reasonable way to make copies, and they still work
fine.
When copying onto opaque paper, put sheets of carbon under the paper,
carbon up, and sheets of carbon over the paper, carbon down, and trace
the pattern with a knitting needle or an absolutely-empty ball-point
pen, or a roulette, or a tracing wheel, or whatever strikes your
fancy. I have a stylus made especially for tracing stashed away
somewhere, probably in the same closet as the drafting board. You
needn't bother with the under-the-paper carbons when copying cutting
lines, but make sure there is carbon on both sides when tracing darts,
notches, etc.
I use only three sheets and move them around under the pattern, but I
copy only one-size patterns that have already been cut out, so I can
trace around the cutting lines without carbon. For copying a new
multi-size pattern, it might be well to use the whole packet of carbon
paper and cover all of both sides of the paper.
Iron the pattern before attempting to copy it -- but make sure that no
steam or dampness can get anywhere near the paper. Best to use an
iron that has never in its life had water in it.
Drafting tape tears tissue paper. If you can't tape in a disposable
part of the paper, use re-positionable correction tape to hold down
tissue paper.
Like masking tape, drafting tape latches on more firmly as time goes
by. Don't leave it in place longer than a few hours.
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
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Posted by romanyroamer on November 8, 2006, 9:31 pm
Hi Kate,
I Know what it is to have "giants" for children!! My 18yr old D is just over
6ft (still growing) 15 yr old son is 6ft4 (still growing rapidly) and 12
yr. old D has just hit 6ft (still growing) This is very *scary* and hard to
keep them clothed. The other 4 are also tall for their ages except the 14 yr
old daughter who has always been small. She was recently diagnosed with type
1 juvenile diabetes. Since she has been on insulin she has begun to grow but
don't think she will catch the others! She will be tall but not a Giant (as
the 3yr. old calls them!).....Amelia
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> Olwyn Mary wrote:
> > Myrna wrote:
> >> HI, All,
> >> I haven't sewn for a long time and I know things have changed. I'd like
> >> to make something for my granddaughter but I need something easy that
> >> uses fabric that is easy to work with. Also do patterns come
> >> true-to-size? If I buy T2, will it be the size of T2s in the stores?
> >> I have no idea where to start.
> >> Thanks much!
> >> Myrna
> > The "Big Three" patterns are sized for baby elephants. Try Kwik-Sew.
> > Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
> No patterns are the size of ready-to-wear! Kwick Sew are good, and
> sized for growth. For James I found they were nothing like long enough,
> once he got to toddler sizes, but he *is* tall: 98th percentile all the
> way! (Now, at 12, he's as tall as me - 5'3"!)
> --
> Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
> Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
> http://www.katedicey.co.uk
> Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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> buy tracing paper so you can draw out the patterns. You don't want to
> cut your master pattern. The book is well worth the money because it
> covers a lot of sizes.