Sewing without a serger

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Sewing without a serger Brenna23 06-02-2008
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Posted by Joy Beeson on July 20, 2008, 12:49 am


On Mon, 2 Jun 2008 16:27:14 -0700 (PDT), Brenna23

> Anyways, what are some good ways to bind the seams or
> cover them so that they aren't exposed on the inside?

Seams in non-fraying fabrics often don't need covering.

Pinking may be sufficient.

I use pre-graded flat-fell seams a lot.
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/~roughsewing/RUFFTEXT/ROUGH009.TXT
Use "find" to jump down to "An easier way to make a flat-felled
seam:". If your browser mushes everything into one paragraph, click
"view source".

(Looks as though this file needs a thorough editing as soon as I'm
done with "bags".)

French seams are good on fine fabrics, and places where you don't mind
a ridge inside the garment. Very narrow french seams are often used
on sheer fabrics.

On thick, heavy fabrics, a hong-kong binding is good. I've used it
only on things that are afterward sewn down -- for the top layer of
the mock-felled seams in my wool pants, for example -- but I first
heard of it as a finish for seams that are pressed open.

You take a strip of plain bias tape with no folds pressed in -- though
I wouldn't bother to iron the folds out of commercial tape. (Well I
don't *think* I would; I haven't used commercial tape in twenty or
thirty years.)

Match one raw edge of the tape to the edge to be finished and sew a
quarter inch from the edge. Make a narrower seam if you want a
daintier finish, a wider one if the fabric is very thick. Wrap the
tape over the edge to the back, then stitch in the ditch to make it
stay wrapped.

I'm now making a purse where I simply ran a line of straight stitching
near each raw edge before sewing the purse together. Most of these
edges were torn, so I get a fringed effect.

I've heard of turning under a quarter inch of the raw edge, then
straight-stitching to make it stay folded, but this strikes me as
clumsy, and I've never done it.

If the edge is to be cut along a drawn thread, you can zig-zag before
cutting for a very neat and flat finish. Let the zigs pierce the
fabric and the zags fall into the space where the thread has been
withdrawn.

Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

Posted by on July 29, 2008, 11:58 pm


> On Mon, 2 Jun 2008 16:27:14 -0700 (PDT), Brenna23
>
> > Anyways, what are some good ways to bind the seams or
> > cover them so that they aren't exposed on the inside?
>
> Seams in non-fraying fabrics often don't need covering. =A0
>
> Pinking may be sufficient.
>
> I use pre-graded flat-fell seams a lot.http://roughsewing.home.comcast.ne=
t/~roughsewing/RUFFTEXT/ROUGH009.TXT
> Use "find" to jump down to "An easier way to make a flat-felled
> seam:". =A0 =A0If your browser mushes everything into one paragraph, clic=
k
> "view source". =A0
>
> (Looks as though this file needs a thorough editing as soon as I'm
> done with "bags".) =A0
>
> French seams are good on fine fabrics, and places where you don't mind
> a ridge inside the garment. =A0Very narrow french seams are often used
> on sheer fabrics. =A0
>
> On thick, heavy fabrics, a hong-kong binding is good. =A0I've used it
> only on things that are afterward sewn down -- for the top layer of
> the mock-felled seams in my wool pants, for example -- but I first
> heard of it as a finish for seams that are pressed open. =A0
>
> You take a strip of plain bias tape with no folds pressed in -- though
> I wouldn't bother to iron the folds out of commercial tape. =A0(Well I
> don't *think* I would; I haven't used commercial tape in twenty or
> thirty years.) =A0
>
> Match one raw edge of the tape to the edge to be finished and sew a
> quarter inch from the edge. =A0Make a narrower seam if you want a
> daintier finish, a wider one if the fabric is very thick. =A0Wrap the
> tape over the edge to the back, then stitch in the ditch to make it
> stay wrapped. =A0
>
> I'm now making a purse where I simply ran a line of straight stitching
> near each raw edge before sewing the purse together. =A0Most of these
> edges were torn, so I get a fringed effect. =A0
>
> I've heard of turning under a quarter inch of the raw edge, then
> straight-stitching to make it stay folded, but this strikes me as
> clumsy, and I've never done it.
>
> If the edge is to be cut along a drawn thread, you can zig-zag before
> cutting for a very neat and flat finish. =A0Let the zigs pierce the
> fabric and the zags fall into the space where the thread has been
> withdrawn. =A0
>
> Joy Beeson
> --
> joy beeson at comcast dot nethttp://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/-- sewin=
ghttp://n3f.home.comcast.net/-- Writers' Exchange
> The above message is a Usenet post.
> I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

On my [soft] cotton shirts i always stitch the shoulder seam [inside]
than lay it flat and zigzag it to the bodice ,, it sits well and is
neatly finnished ,,
mirjam

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