overlocking or hemming silk velvet

Posted by on January 16, 2006, 4:38 pm

Hi I am new to this group and wonder if anyone has tips for heming or
overlocking silk velvet. I have a Janome Mylock 134d, does anyone know
if there are particular tension setting for silk.
Thanks Sue

Posted by Kate Dicey on January 16, 2006, 6:22 pm

sue@purple-cow.co.uk wrote:

show/hide quoted text
Yup - but it's different for every machine and thread combination! Take
a look in the manual for the advised settings for a medium weight woven
fabric, and test that, then adjust thread tension, stitch length and
width, and differential feed until you get the best results. You also
need to take into account that the pressure of the foot and feed dogs
will mark the pile of the velvet, so leave enough hem to turn the
damaged portion up out of the way.

Then hand stitch the hem! I find that using either silk thread or a
fine rayon machine embroidery thread works well: fine thread, fine
needle, and don't make the stitches too long! Too big a gap between
stitches means there is too much fabric hanging from each stitch, and
you are more likely to get dimples from the stitches showing on the
outside. Also, don't pull the stitches tight! More loose stitches
works better than fewer tighter ones in this instance.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by on January 16, 2006, 11:17 pm

Dear Sue,

And here's another technique for garments where one doesn't want any
hem showing. Use one-inch wide horsehair. This is a product used in
millinery to make flowers, but it's great for hems as well. It comes
in many colors, and is carried by upper end fabric stores or by
millinery supply stores.

Topstitch it to the bottom of the skirt on the right side, stretching
it gently as it is applied. Then, flip it up to the wrong side. It's
cut on the bias, so it stays in place without sewing it. This
technique is used mostly for gowns and wedding dresses.

Teri

Posted by BEI Design on January 16, 2006, 11:29 pm

gjones2938@yahoo.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text

On silk *velvet*??? OP's question was about hemming silk velvet.
While I agree that horsehair, in the couture hemming technique you
describe, is wonderful for satin, taffeta, etc.,I would think the
stiffness of horsehair would be anathema to a skirt made of velvet.

Posted by on January 17, 2006, 10:20 am

Dear BEI Design,

Of course, it depends upon the design of the dress, but we have used it
successfully on silk velvet gowns with straight skirt hems, A-line
hems, and even some with trains.

Teri

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