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Posted by Kay Lancaster on February 9, 2007, 5:42 am
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> There is an alternative to tailor tacking that I much prefer.
> However, in some cases tailor tacking is a must. My solution: Using
> straight pins with a large head, I use the ones that can be ironed
> over, Put the pin through pattern and both layers of fabric with head
> at the dot you want to mark. Pop the pattern off, with pin still in
> place, fold back the top layer, you can feel the head of the pin, take
> your marker, whatever you use, and you can mark a dot on both pieces
> of the fabric. By the way, I put my fabric wrong sides together for
This is one of the methods I use for marking, but I've got a couple of
others, too... so some random comments:
--for tailor tacks on loosely woven fabrics, I often use serger chain.
It's just 3-4 pieces of thread, so it slips through an embroidery needle
eye nicely, but "fluffs up" and holds in the fabric nicely when you're not
holding it taut.
-- whenever possible, I use the RTW manufacturing method of marking
the point of a dart 1/2" back from the actual point, by whatever method
I use... a tailor tack, a dot of chalk, a scrap of tape. The legs of the
dart are often marked with a small clip to the seam allowance. Shaped
darts (with curved legs) I do mark with tailor tacks, but put them 1/4"
inside the dart legs, so I don't have to pick out tacks as I'm sewing.
-- end points of darts and pocket placement points can also be marked with
a "scooch hole" in many (but not all!) fabrics. An awl or even a sewing
machine needle, pulled through the thicknesses of fabric, can leave a
distortion in the weave enough to mark the needed position. This mark
should not be made on a seamline, but 1/4 - 1/2" off the actual position.
Try this on a scrap of your fabric first before committing to using it
on any particular fabric.
Kay
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> -Irene