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Knitting and other yarn carfts - Yarn making & use: spin, dye, knit, weave etc.
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Posted by David R. Sky on July 8, 2006, 6:45 am
Hi,
I'm crocheting a rectangular piece about 12 by 24 inches, but one end is
turning out to be narrower than the other end - the piece is now more than
sixty percent complete and I don't want to frog it. I understand from Cher
that I need to block it, my understanding this is done by blocking it,
perhaps ironing it then letting it cool pinned to shape. Is this correct? -
I haven't blocked anything previously, what do I pin the blocked item to to
hold it in shape? I seem to have read long ago to not iron the piece
directly but to iron it between two clean towels, is this a good thing to
do? Is it important to know what the yarn is made of? I don't know yet - I
need to get someone to read what the yarn is made of from the label.
Thanks!
David
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Posted by hesira on July 8, 2006, 10:34 am
Hi David,
Do you know the brand and name of the yarn? I would be happy to look
it up for you if you do.
I think fiber content is the key. When I block natural fibers, I soak
the object thoroughly in cool water, then gently squeeze the excess
water out. Next I roll it in a terry cloth towel to remove more water.
If the object is small, I don't use pins, but lay it out in the shape
and size I want on another terry cloth towel to dry completely. The
times I did use pins, I just pinned the object to a double thickness
terry towel.
I'm less familiar with blocking synthetics, but I do know you want to
be careful with the iron. I think you can use the steam feature and
hold the iron several inches above the object.
Hesira
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Posted by David R. Sky on July 8, 2006, 2:03 pm
This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text,
while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
--1910003651-812524608-1152381800=:26981
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=iso-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
Hi Hesira,
I just scanned the front and back of the label (good thing I saved one=20
lol!), it's below. I couldn't figure out the brand but I did get it's 100%=
=20
acrylic.
Note the ~ characters are unrecognized characters by the old DOS scanning=
=20
software I am using on my DOS computer.
Thanks!
David
FRONT OF YARN LABEL:
COLOR: 2101 White
NU UYE LOT
SANS LOT DE TEINTU
SIN TENIR
Made in USA
~) 28 1~6 .t
C~ ~
WORSTED =F9 MEDIUM ~ MOYEN =F9 MEOIO
NET WT 6 oz | 170 9 312 yds | 285 m
~1
NO DYE LOT
SANS LOT DETEINTURE
SIN TENIR
PARLES ~FABRCAANNTTESSDE (~) RED HEART
PA7TERN
ON BACK!
=F9 15 oz (425 ~9)
#2673 Medium Thyme
=F9 14 oz (397 9)
#2672 Light Thyme
=F9 14 oz (397 9)
#2316 Linen
Patron a l'endos!
Patron al Reverso!
(en Ingles)
MACHINE
SEE REVERSE
100% ACRYLIC
UVER ET SECHER UVAR Y SECAR
U ~ACHINE; A MAQUINA;
VOIR A L'ENDOS VER REVERS0
100% ACRYLIUUE . 100% ACRILIC0
~ox10cm ~ .
' 40=F8~C ~ ~
BACK OF YARN LABEL:
CARE: Machine wash warm, gentle cycle. Tumble dry low. Do not over
dry. For best results on fringe, hand wash; lay flat to dry.
ENTRETIEN: Laver a la machine a l'eau tibde, au cycle delicat.
Sechage par culbutage a basse temperature. Ne pas trop secher. Pour
de meilleurs resultats avec les glands et les franges, laver a la
main; etendre a plat pour faire secher.
INSTRUCCIONES PARA LAVADO: Lavar en lavadora con agua tibia, ciclo
delicado. Seca en la secadora a temperatura para ropa delicada. No
secar demasiado. Para mejores resultad en los flecos de este, lavar
a mano; secar extendido.
SB514-004 ShadedThrow
Intermediate experience required ~ ~ ~
INTERMEDIATE
Throw measures approx~lmately 47" x 64" .
TLC~ ~EssentialsTM: 15 Ounces No. 2673 Medium Thyme CA, 14 ounces
each No. 2672 L Thyme CB and No. 2316 Winter White CC.
Crochet Hook: U.S. Size J-10 [6mm].
GAUGE: 1 shell plus 1 sc =3D 3"; Rows 1-5 =3D 31/2". CHECKYOUR GAUGE.
Use any size hc to obtain the gauge.
With CA, ch 152. Row 1 (Wrong Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in
each ch across; turr
Row 2 (Right Side): Ch 1, sc in first sc, ' skip next 4 sc; 9 dtr
in next sc - shell made, skip next 4 sc, sc in next sc; rep from '
across, changing to CB in last sc; turn.
Row 3: With CB, ch 5 (counts as a tr and ch-1 sp), 2 tr in first
sc, ' ch 2, skip 4 dtr, sc in ne dtr, ch 2, sk~lp 4 dtr ~', (2 tr,
ch 1, 2 tr) all in next sc, rep from ' to last sc, end at ", (2 tr,
ch
tr) all in last sc; turn.
Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), 4 dtr in ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, '
shell in next ch-1 sp, sc in nc sc; rep from ' to last sp; 4 dtr in
ch-1 sp, dtr in 4th ch of ch-5 changing to CC; turn.
Row 5: W~lth CC, ch 1, sc in first dtr, ' ch 2, skip 4 dtr, (2 tr,
ch 1, 2 tr) all in next sc, ch 2, sk 4 dtr, sc ~In next dtr; rep
from ~ across working last sc in top of ch-5; turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ' shell in next ch-1 sp, sc in next
sc, rep from ' across changing CA in last sc; turn.
Rep Rows 3-6 for pattern, working color sequence of [2 rows CA 2
rows CB 2 rows CC] 1' times, then 1 more row CA (wrong side); now
turn and work Edging around all edges: With CA, ch 1, sc evenly
around, increasing at corners to keep work flat; join to first sc.
Fasten of With right side facing, attach CB and work 1 rnd sc,
increasing at corners as before; join. Fast off. Rep last rnd with
CC, then again with CA. Weave in ends.
Designed by Mary
Jane Proh ABBREVIATIONS: CA, CB CC =3D Color A Color B, Color C ch =3D
chain dc =3D double croch~ dtr =3D double treble crochet; mm =3D
millimeters; rep - repeat rnd =3D round sc =3D single croch
sp =3D space; st(s) =3D stitch(es); tr =3D treble crochet; ^ =3D repeat
whatever follows the ' as indicate [ ] =3D work directions in
brackets the number of times specified.
SB514-004F Jete nuance
Experience intermediaire requise.
Le jete mesure approximativement 47" x 64".
"Essentials" de TLC~): 15 oz No 2673 Medium Thyme CA, 14 oz chaqye
No 2672 Light Thyn CB et No 2316 Winter White CC.
Crochet: U.S. J-10 [6mm].
TENSION- 1 coq plus 1 ms =3D 3 '; R 1-5 =3D 3 1/2' . VERIFIER VOTRE
TENSION. Utiliser le crochet necessaire pour obtenir la tension.
Avec CA, 152 ml. R 1 (Env de l'ouv): Ms dans la 2e ml du crochet et
dans chaque ml, tournr - 1 51 ms.
R 2 (End de l'ouv): 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re ms, ' sauter les 4 ms
suiv; 9 tr-br dans la ms suiv -coq fa~lte; sauter les 4 ms suiv, ms
dans la ms suiv; rep de ', en changeant pour CB dans la dern ms;
tourner.
R 3: Avec CB, 5 ml (compte comme une db-br et un esp de ml), 2 db-
br dans la 1 re ms ' 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br, ms dans la tr-br suiv,
2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br ", (2 db-br 1 ml, 2 db-br) tout dan la ms
suiv; rep de ' jsq la dern ms, finir a '~; (2 db-br, 1 ml, db-br)
tout dans ia dern ms tourne R 4: 5 ml (compte comme une tr-br), 4
tr-br dans l'esp de ml, ms dans la ms suiv, ~ coq dans l'esp de ml
SUIV, ms dans la ms suiv; rep de ' jsq dern esp; 4 tr-br dans l'esp
de ml, tr-br dan la 4e des s ml en changeant pour CC; tourner.
R 5: Avec CC, 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re tr-br, ' 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br,
(2 db-br 1 ml 2 db-br) tout dan la ms suiv, 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br,
ms dans la tr-br suiv; rep de ' en trav la dern ms dans le haut des
5 ml; tourner.
R 6: 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re ms, ' coq dans l'esp de ml suiv, ms dans
la ms suiv; rep de ' en changeant pour CA dans la dern ms; tourner.
Rep les R 3-6 pour le motif, en trav la sequence de couleur de [2
r CA, 2 r CB, 2 r CC] 12 fois puis 1 r de plus CA (env de l'ouv);
maintenant tourner et trav la bordure autour des bords:
Avec CA, 1 ml, ms egalement tout autour en augmentant dans les
coins pour garder le trav=3D a plat; joindre a la 1 re ms. Briser le
fil. Avec l'end de l'ouv vers vous attacher CB et trav 1 tou en ms,
en augmentant dans les coins comme auparavant; joindre. Briser le
fil Rep le dern tou avec CC, puis encore avec CA. Entrer les bouts
Concu par Mary
Jane Protus ABREVIATIONS: CA, CB, CC =3D Couleur A, Couleur B,
Couleur C coq =3D coquille db-br =3D
double-bride; dern =3D dernier; end =3D endroit; env =3D envers; esp =3D
espace; ml =3D maille en l'air mm =3D m~lllimetre; ms =3D maille serree;
rep =3D repeter; m =3D maille(s); r =3D rang(s); suiv =3D suivant; tr-br =
=3D
tnple-bride; trav =3D travailler; ' =3D repeter ce qui suit ~ tel
qu'indique; [ ] =3D trav les instructic
dans les parenthese le nombre de fois specifie.
On Sat, 8 Jul 2006, hesira wrote:
> Hi David,
>
> Do you know the brand and name of the yarn? I would be happy to look
> it up for you if you do.
>
> I think fiber content is the key. When I block natural fibers, I soak
> the object thoroughly in cool water, then gently squeeze the excess
> water out. Next I roll it in a terry cloth towel to remove more water.
> If the object is small, I don't use pins, but lay it out in the shape
> and size I want on another terry cloth towel to dry completely. The
> times I did use pins, I just pinned the object to a double thickness
> terry towel.
>
> I'm less familiar with blocking synthetics, but I do know you want to
> be careful with the iron. I think you can use the steam feature and
> hold the iron several inches above the object.
>
> Hesira
>
>
--1910003651-812524608-1152381800=:26981--
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Posted by Midwest poster on July 8, 2006, 8:48 pm
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, David, but blocking isn't likely to do
much to change the shape of something made of acrylic yarn.
--
Jan in MN
Hi Hesira,
I just scanned the front and back of the label (good thing I saved one
lol!), it's below. I couldn't figure out the brand but I did get it's 100%
acrylic.
Note the ~ characters are unrecognized characters by the old DOS scanning
software I am using on my DOS computer.
Thanks!
David
|
|
Posted by David R. Sky on July 8, 2006, 9:20 pm
Okay, thanks jan, I guess that's better than inadvertantly destroying it
*grumpy lol!*
David
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Midwest poster wrote:
> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, David, but blocking isn't likely to do
> much to change the shape of something made of acrylic yarn.
>
>
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