How would you knit this design?
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Knitting and other yarn carfts - Yarn making & use: spin, dye, knit, weave etc. 

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How would you knit this design? Harlan Messinger 01-21-2007
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Posted by WoolyGooly on January 21, 2007, 11:24 am
On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 10:28:48 -0500, Harlan Messinger

>I don't have a project in mind yet! I've just been playing with various
>patterns on grids I drew for myself on the computer, possibly for later
>use on sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves, socks. This one in particular is
>probably too many rows to fit onto gloves, so most likely a sweater, a
>hat or scarf now that I think about it.

Remember that knitting stitches are wider than they are tall. 5x8
grid, or even 3x4 grid, will give you a better idea of the vertical
appearance of a pattern than you get from a squared grid.

As far as floats - I'll float a color for as many as 8 stitches before
I start worrying about catching the float. Most of my colorwork is
knitted at 8spi or better so I'm not exceeding the "one inch" rule of
thumb for floats.

Posted by Harlan Messinger on January 21, 2007, 12:45 pm
WoolyGooly wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 10:28:48 -0500, Harlan Messinger
>
>> I don't have a project in mind yet! I've just been playing with various
>> patterns on grids I drew for myself on the computer, possibly for later
>> use on sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves, socks. This one in particular is
>> probably too many rows to fit onto gloves, so most likely a sweater, a
>> hat or scarf now that I think about it.
>
> Remember that knitting stitches are wider than they are tall. 5x8
> grid, or even 3x4 grid, will give you a better idea of the vertical
> appearance of a pattern than you get from a squared grid.
>
> As far as floats - I'll float a color for as many as 8 stitches before
> I start worrying about catching the float. Most of my colorwork is
> knitted at 8spi or better so I'm not exceeding the "one inch" rule of
> thumb for floats.

OK, that's a little more flexible. Thanks for both tips.

Posted by JCT on January 22, 2007, 11:21 am

> As far as floats - I'll float a color for as many as 8 stitches before
> I start worrying about catching the float. Most of my colorwork is
> knitted at 8spi or better so I'm not exceeding the "one inch" rule of
> thumb for floats.

I would agree with an important exception - keep the floats shorter on
sleeves - especially in children's garments. I do color work with
soft washable wool fingering for kids' sweaters and find that they do
tend to
forget to make fistswhen they put their hands in the sleeves - so keep
the
floats to no more than four stitches (three if I can) on the sleeves.
It isn't that
much more work to catch the floats where the gap is longer and keeps
them
from being pulled.


Posted by Mirjam Bruck-Cohen on January 28, 2007, 1:56 am
I keep the 8 space floats in my weaving , in crochet i just work the
unused thread into the work , in knitting i twist the float every 2nd
or 3rd stich with the working thread ,,,
mirjam

>
>> As far as floats - I'll float a color for as many as 8 stitches before
>> I start worrying about catching the float. Most of my colorwork is
>> knitted at 8spi or better so I'm not exceeding the "one inch" rule of
>> thumb for floats.
>
>I would agree with an important exception - keep the floats shorter on
>sleeves - especially in children's garments. I do color work with
>soft washable wool fingering for kids' sweaters and find that they do
>tend to
> forget to make fistswhen they put their hands in the sleeves - so keep
>the
>floats to no more than four stitches (three if I can) on the sleeves.
>It isn't that
> much more work to catch the floats where the gap is longer and keeps
>them
> from being pulled.
>


Posted by Richard Eney on January 21, 2007, 1:01 pm
>I've put a design up at
>
>http://www.gavelcade.com/weave1.gif
>
>In some of the rows, there are gaps of more than five stitches between
>where one color leaves off and where it picks up again, so theoretically
>Fair Isle will leave strands floating for too long. But this seems too
>elaborate for intarsia. How do you work a design like this?

Fair Isle done with proper Fair Isle wool is very "sticky" - the yarn
will cling to itself and slightly felt over time, so they didn't have
to worry about the length of the floats. They also used fingering
weight or finer yarn, so the number of stitches translates to a
physical distance of maybe half an inch.

I've done some things with combined intarsia and stranding. I've
done some long stranding with worsted weight acrylic - as long as
the stranding is loose enough. If the item isn't gloves or sleeves
where fingers would catch in the floats, you don't have to catch it in.

Kaffee Fassett designs involve elaborate intarsia. It depends on
how much you want to do it.

=Tamar

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