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So guess what I am working on now? Samantha Hill - take out TRASH 02-01-2008
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Posted by Samantha Hill - take out TRASH on February 1, 2008, 2:53 pm
I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with) yarn, because
all the yarn I bought to make the sweater was screaming at me after I
finished Mimi's sweater.

On Wednesday, my youngest finished testing for and successfully earned
his Black Belt in Tae Kwon Do (which included qualifying at the 85th
percentile on the President's Physical Fitness Challenge), and I was
over at the gym for a few hours knitting away.

Yesterday work was REALLY slow, so I was sitting around here knitting
away on it more and wishing it was done because it was freezing cold.

I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.

This knitting such a big piece in the round on circulars is funny -- I
feel like I am knitting laps around a race track LOL.

Posted by Georgia on February 1, 2008, 8:15 pm
As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do more
short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pretty
sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published c.
1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making your
own patterns this way.

Georgia
http://www.georgiamorgan.net/html/knitting.htm

> I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
> finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
> knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
> strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
> or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with) yarn, because
> all the yarn I bought to make the sweater was screaming at me after I
> finished Mimi's sweater.
>
> On Wednesday, my youngest finished testing for and successfully earned
> his Black Belt in Tae Kwon Do (which included qualifying at the 85th
> percentile on the President's Physical Fitness Challenge), and I was
> over at the gym for a few hours knitting away.
>
> Yesterday work was REALLY slow, so I was sitting around here knitting
> away on it more and wishing it was done because it was freezing cold.
>
> I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
> circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
> separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
> have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
> set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
> then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
> accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.
>
> This knitting such a big piece in the round on circulars is funny -- I
> feel like I am knitting laps around a race track LOL.



Posted by Richard Eney on February 2, 2008, 2:05 am
>wrote
>> I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
>> finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
>> knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
>> strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
>> or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with)
<snip>
>> I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
>> circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
>> separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
>> have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
>> set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
>> then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
>> accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.
>
>As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
>short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do more
>short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pretty
>sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published c.
>1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making your
>own patterns this way.

That shapes the shoulders and sleeve tops; but before you get that far,
you need to shape the set-in for the sleeve hole. On a circular knit,
that's done by binding off (or putting on a holder) about ten stitches
(maybe fewer, on big needles) for the bottom of each armhole. Then you
switch to knitting back and forth on the front and back (one at a time,
usually). (You could just knit the tube all the way up and then machine
stitch where you want to cut the armhole. The shaping is done with the
sewing machine then, but where's the fun in that?)

To make the sleeves set in a little more, you do bindoffs on every
knit row on both sides of each armhole, to make a little slanted
edge, until you narrow the flat part to the width you want it.

Usually the measurement is the width at the points of the shoulders,
but it can be an inch or so in toward the neck. If you make the back
and chest of the sweater narrow, you have to make the sleeve tops
wider to cover the ends of the shoulders. With doubled yarn and big
needles, a few stitches either way will make a very big difference,
so I recommend putting in a lifeline before you begin the shaping.
If you have to rip it out, you will have a marker for where to start
again. Try it on as you go, too.

You can knit the sleeves wrist-up and sew them in or you can pick
up stitches from the completed armhole and knit down to the wrist.

=Tamar

Posted by on February 5, 2008, 12:47 am
On Feb 2, 9:05=A0am, dicc...@radix.net (Richard Eney) wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >wrote
> >> I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
> >> finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
> >> knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
> >> strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
> >> or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with)
> <snip>
> >> I have about 7 inches done. =A0It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
> >> circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
> >> separately. =A0I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I wi=
ll
> >> have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
> >> set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and=

> >> then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
> >> accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.
>
> >As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
> >short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do m=
ore
> >short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pre=
tty
> >sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published =
c.
> >1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making you=
r
> >own patterns this way.
>
> That shapes the shoulders and sleeve tops; but before you get that far,
> you need to shape the set-in for the sleeve hole. =A0On a circular knit,
> that's done by binding off (or putting on a holder) about ten stitches
> (maybe fewer, on big needles) for the bottom of each armhole. =A0Then you
> switch to knitting back and forth on the front and back (one at a time,
> usually). =A0(You could just knit the tube all the way up and then machine=

> stitch where you want to cut the armhole. =A0The shaping is done with the
> sewing machine then, but where's the fun in that?)
>
> To make the sleeves set in a little more, you do bindoffs on every
> knit row on both sides of each armhole, to make a little slanted
> edge, until you narrow the flat part to the width you want it. =A0
>
> Usually the measurement is the width at the points of the shoulders,
> but it can be an inch or so in toward the neck. =A0If you make the back
> and chest of the sweater narrow, you have to make the sleeve tops
> wider to cover the ends of the shoulders. =A0With doubled yarn and big
> needles, a few stitches either way will make a very big difference,
> so I recommend putting in a lifeline before you begin the shaping. =A0
> If you have to rip it out, you will have a marker for where to start
> again. Try it on as you go, too.
>
> You can knit the sleeves wrist-up and sew them in or you can pick
> up stitches from the completed armhole and knit down to the wrist.
>
> =3DTamar- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

As always Tamar has wonderful explanations !!!!
thank you mirjam

Posted by Samantha Hill - take out TRASH on February 5, 2008, 12:07 pm
mirjam@actcom.co.il wrote:
>
> As always Tamar has wonderful explanations !!!!

It was indeed a wonderful explanation that I saved for later use, but I
am a little bit flummoxed as to how I am supposed to adapt it for a
bottom-up sweater that is in progress.

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