another one on the circular - Page 5

On Feb 12, 8:31=A0pm, "vanmier" <vanmier AT peoplepc DOT com> wrote:
> Leah,
> =A0 =A0 =A0I'm not a knitter. =A0I can't quite get the hang of it. *lol*
> Christy
> > Christy
> > I have the Threads Magazine article book on hand knitting. =A0They
> > recommend knitting cotton ribs with crossed sts to help them keep
> > their shape.
> > They also suggest in the body of a stockinette sweater that you knit
> > into the back of each st and purl regular to help the fabric keep it's
> > shape. =A0You can also do a plaited stockinette by doing a row 1 K
> > regular, row 2 P all sts b "with yarn looped under the needle" and
> > then repeating those 2 rows.
> > They also recommend casting on with the size needle recommended for
> > the project, but then immediately switching to a needle 3-5 sizes
> > smaller; if the pattern calls for size 8 needles, they recommend you
> > knit the rib using a 3, 4, or 5 needle so the rib is nice and tight to
> > begin with.
> > Another trick mentioned is to knit a regular rib using a strand of
> > elastic along with a strand of yarn to help keep it from flopping
> > about, the same way I've seen it recommended to use a strand of
> > elastic when doing sock ribbing in cotton to help it keep it's shape.
> > My concern is that the elastic will probably eventually break or
> > stretch out of shape, so if I did a sweater in cotton, I'd probably
> > use a crossed rib, which won't come undone unless the sweater gets
> > cut.
> > Leah- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

com> wrote:

> I'm not a knitter. I can't quite get the hang of it. *lol*

> Christy
> Sorry I missed that you were a crocheter! I also crochet. I've
> used
> Sugar & Cream to crochet. It was a lacy pattern and looked a little
> floppy until I used a smaller hook to tighten up the sts. I think
> the
> thickness of crochet rib should be OK in cotton if you use a little
> smaller hook, say 1-2 sizes, unless you crochet loosely, and then
> I'd
> go down 3-4 hook sizes to make the rib tight, assuming your sweater
> would have ribs on it somewhere.
> Leah

> On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:04:09 -0500, "vanmier" <vanmier AT peoplepc DOT
> com> wrote:
> > =A0 =A0 I don't think I've really thought about cotton on a large scale.=

> >usually only use cotton in the form of crochet cotton, for wall hangings =

> >dollies and such. =A0The local craft shop, I believe, does have the sugar=

> >cream cotton yarn. =A0I'll have to check the price on it. =A0A cotton tan=

> >or light sweater would probably be nice. : )
> Christy
> I have the Threads Magazine article book on hand knitting. =A0They
> recommend knitting cotton ribs with crossed sts to help them keep
> their shape. =A0
> They also suggest in the body of a stockinette sweater that you knit
> into the back of each st and purl regular to help the fabric keep it's
> shape. =A0You can also do a plaited stockinette by doing a row 1 K
> regular, row 2 P all sts b "with yarn looped under the needle" and
> then repeating those 2 rows. =A0
> They also recommend casting on with the size needle recommended for
> the project, but then immediately switching to a needle 3-5 sizes
> smaller; if the pattern calls for size 8 needles, they recommend you
> knit the rib using a 3, 4, or 5 needle so the rib is nice and tight to
> begin with. =A0
> Another trick mentioned is to knit a regular rib using a strand of
> elastic along with a strand of yarn to help keep it from flopping
> about, the same way I've seen it recommended to use a strand of
> elastic when doing sock ribbing in cotton to help it keep it's shape.
> My concern is that the elastic will probably eventually break or
> stretch out of shape, so if I did a sweater in cotton, I'd probably
> use a crossed rib, which won't come undone unless the sweater gets
> cut. =A0
> Leah =A0

> On Thu, 7 Feb 2008 13:18:48 -0500, "vanmier" <vanmier AT peoplepc DOT
> com> wrote:
> >Acrylic is, unfortunately, the most affordable and most available in my
> >area. =A0I would love to try some of the more organic fibers. =A0Bamboo, =

> >have mentioned, and I would also like to try some alpaca. =A0I may get
> >adventurous one day and just buy something not acrylic. : )
> Christy
> Cotton is an organic fiber, readily available, and usually
> inexpensive. =A0The only thing it's really bad for is knit ribbing.
> There are variations you can use to make a good cotton rib, but for
> the most part, I don't like it for sweaters. =A0I do have some really
> thin cotton that is naturally colored and changes colors as it gets
> washed (either brown to green or lighter brown to darker brown). =A0The
> cone is tucked away in my stash right now, so I can't tell you the
> name, but it was quite reasonable when I bought it. =A0
> For branching out into wool, you can get a wool blend like Lion
> Brand's Woolease. =A0I have a hat in Woolease (20% wool content in their
> black yarn) for when the weather is colder and I want a touch of wool,
> but not 100%. =A0
> As for cost, you can shop around and find good deals on the more
> exotic yarns, or just save up by not purchasing acrylic and then spend
> that money on the exotic yarn. =A0I have fingering weight yarns that
> cost $5 a skein that I'm making socks out of (need 3 skeins since they
> are only 50 grams and I'm crocheting these socks, would only need 2 if
> I was knitting them), and fingering weight yarn that costs $20 a skein
> that I'll probably also make knit socks out of, so there is a variety
> of prices out there. =A0You just need to shop around your local LYS or
> online. =A0I'd avoid the really exotic sequinned yarns at first, since
> they can be really difficult to work with. =A0You could also combine
> yarns, like a strand of lace weight mohair blend, with your acrylic to
> add a bit of the exotic to your project w/out breaking the bank, or
> use something like angora as an accent on cuffs and the like. =A0
> Leah =A0